Your favorite surfboard and why?

SMUKES

Well-Known Member
Jun 23, 2009
3,140
1,195
USA California
With the great discussion going on over at JC Nelson I started thinking about what makes a surfboard "good". I have 2 that stand out, both are low tech.
1.) Larry Gordon model G&S, 9'6", stock layup custom ordered in 1984. This was my first custom longboard. I learned on shortboards. Working for Larry at G&S was awesome, he was the nicest guy and when I told him I wanted the closest thing I could get to the old dude's logs he laughed and had one made for me just like his. Few young guys were on logs yet in South San Diego but I was done with short boards and the stupidity of NSSA events etc... This board stands out for its place in my life and because it would do this thing where in forward trim the nose would cut the surface tension and shoot up a wall of tiny drops while making a weird ripping noise.
2.) A 7' Frye Summer Magic. In 1981 A kid from my highschool (the surfiest looking kid at my valley ass highschool) came into the shop in El Cajon with the Frye and wanted a trade for deposit on a twinfin. It was like new, I bought it outright for $200. The Why: A couple of weeks after the trade-in I was opening the PB shop and the surf looked pretty great at PB Drive. This was when Roper was fixing dings in the shed attached to the shop. Surfing wise, I idolized him (soul arch at pipe). As a person though he was intimidating and surly as fuck, especially to a shy kid from ElCajon. So at about 11am Joe walked by the register and says "check the surf?" all I could say, without eye contact, was "its kinda good." I surfed my lunch break. South swell, zero wind, heavy tropic air and weirdly uncrowded outside, inside was a minefield. I paddled the Frye out and took up way outside and a bit south by myself. A set swung through and I went and I remember it being a bit overhead at the peak. Anyway, did my thing on that left, did a layback thingy under the lip and looked down the line and saw Joe and Skipper paddling out. I remember Skip smiling and Joe not smiling haha. When I got back outside Skip was still grinning and Joe glanced over. I'll never forget what he said, it was profound... "Nice wave, faggot." It was perfect, all so perfect. I hope everybody eventually gets their favorite board.
 

Surfnfish

Well-Known Member
Feb 6, 2015
2,034
2,939
PNW between here and there
From around a 125+ customs..

9'8 Wardy in 1964'..no longer had to borrow boards, or use my cuz's Duke K popout..a superbly balanced board that was a game changer for this grem

1970 Dick Keating 7'6 single fin pin for winter waves that drew the arcs I had been visualizing on a larger canvas

1976 Steve Colletta 6'10 pocket rocket single fin that just flew through the deep

1990 BK 8'0 semi thruster I waited 6 months for...absolute attack mode board....a sad day when SF OB made kindling out of it

1994 Doug Schroedel 8'0 thruster that saw me through Indo to Sunset to Fiji to countless west coast winter sessions...son will paddle my ash's out on this board

2007 Art Coyler 9'0 HPLB quad/2+1 that opened up my eyes on just how manuverable and fast a perfectly executed racy HPLB could be, and the range it could handle

2018' Tim Stamps 9'8 Galaxy tuned for Oregon beachbreak...my fave LB ever for all around fun waves small to larger

been others that were great...these have been special
 
Last edited:

zippy

Active Member
Mar 24, 2008
168
187
USA New Jersey
9’0” Tyler Mini Zeke diamond tail.
This board is versatile enough that when it’s all I have with me and the waves are bigger than expected, it still works. Something about the nose rocker makes it special for me. Handles NJ beach break well.

8’ Campbell Bros. Alpha Omega.
Paddles into waves early and also handles steep beach break well. Just a fun board for me.
 

Attachments

  • DF0AB20E-2681-42EF-A073-00A093CAD802.jpeg
    DF0AB20E-2681-42EF-A073-00A093CAD802.jpeg
    34.2 KB · Views: 64
  • 495BFABE-235E-457C-9DF7-9A2218876D67.jpeg
    495BFABE-235E-457C-9DF7-9A2218876D67.jpeg
    26.1 KB · Views: 66

DanSan

Well-Known Member
Jun 7, 2012
2,780
2,020
Soquel,CA
smukes...bullseye post....for me it easier to point the few that really..really didn't jive..
however, i think go thru this love it..meh...love again or not phase...if i stick with it..
and not be impatient....
1) jim dunlop mini sim 2010-2016.5 rode that beautiful steed
into the ground...it was my go to ..in jax bch ..unless it was micro..
it was 6.4 x 24 x 3 stringless epoxy..twin or quad..it rocked...
hurricane irene..wow...but everyday..beach break at the pier..or sandbars...perfect
and i could bring it into the hospital or surgery center..and security would store it for me..
so it didnt bake in my van..for an afternoon sweltering surf before going home to pvb
it is hanging on a wall in florida now
2) bruce fowler V8 vbottom single fin..9.75" 4A..
bruce...and i just really on the same frequency..his 8.0 nvm..i shoulda never sold to borzano
i had a 8.2..now an 8.0
cowells, indicator, rockview, point sewers, trees, privates...etc..doesn't matter
memorable waves...feb 2019 very low tide,,,paddled out at the lane..settled inside of middle peak..edge of the indicator...got a nice wide swinging head high wave...that would not let me get off
until my feet hit the sand at the dream inn...my buddy daniel was on the cliff
watching hooting...nice...another time a jazzy waist high wave at sewers...flowed jazzed
all the way to the stairs...it will beinterersting comparing with myosprey 8.6 frankenspud by dane perlee
when im healed..
10.0 osprey speed demon ..speaking of the laconic enigma...dane perlee...a good friend..but a mystery
anywho..this wide tail log ..just does it for me...flows..trims..glides..but turns...im not so nibble anymore..
so nose riding ..niot an issue..but i know it does watching dane...i just wish i could ride it in hawaii..when we visit
my wife's and my relatives there in december...

caveat..i must be losing brain cells...the memories of youth, boards, etc are warm fuzzy half blended memories..
 

DanSan

Well-Known Member
Jun 7, 2012
2,780
2,020
Soquel,CA
smukes..spot on.

maybe another futuyre post...
visiting ,traveling to a place...
was there ... board(s)..that were borrowed
and/or rented..that surprised to [email protected]#@
out of jammers..that they were not expecting...
 

SMUKES

Well-Known Member
Jun 23, 2009
3,140
1,195
USA California
In my 45 years I can say "no". Seems a board's gotta belong to me for me to connect. I snapped a board in Costa Rica and had access to any DT I could want but just couldn't get over myself. All in my head.
 

Big D

Active Member
Nov 4, 2009
365
107
10'2" 3.5" thick Skip Frye square tail glider; glassed at moonlight with the little frog logo. Got the board used and it was absolutely epic. Unfortunately I only had it for 18 months or so. I had to repair several issues with it but got her sparkling before her re-christening. A job put me out of state at the beginning of 2020 so I went ahead and sold it since it wouldn't get frequently used from probably 4-6 years. Thankfully I took it to Bob Mitsven right before I left and had accurate dims taken. It had an incredibly unique & steep nose rocker (a very subtle transition and not noticeable to the eye; but holy shit...when you measured it out it was unbelievably flipped. It may have simply been twisted over time. It also had a fairly flat deck and boxier rails. Only thing I have to remember it was a surfline cam video of Swamis which happened to catch my first wave on it. When I was down in San Diego in March I stopped by and asked Bob if he still had the dims etc. (he did). Handed him cash and Jr's now in the works. I'm just waiting for the call now. Can't wait to get the newer version under my feet.

 




Top