Well guys, here I am in Scrips Encinitas, had a heart attack last night, I knew the hard breathing wasn’t a good sign while surfing last week.This past week was an eye opener for me, an 8 day trip to the sand bottomed southern points in Mexico.
As a 3 time US shortboard champion I expected to be rusty after only getting in the water 5-6 times since last summer.
Doldrums surf, no kelp, morning and evening high tides, the outbreak, red tide, financial uncertainty.
That said, the breaks were beyond my physical ability at this time, sucking up take offs faster than I could catch and get to my feet.
These were NOT longboard waves, I brought a new 6’1” and got so winded trying to paddle out through overhead dumpers, I wasn’t ashamed, but could see the, use it or lose it message.
I eventually got some waves, but got thumped, mugged and raped as a Reminder I’m 74 years old and in Damn good shape.
I couldn’t get comfortable last night, my upper back and chest kept throbbing, I had made an appointment for today with my doc, didn’t get to see him