You, Aging And Surfing

shapewright

Well-Known Member
Aug 6, 2006
911
783
USA California
This past week was an eye opener for me, an 8 day trip to the sand bottomed southern points in Mexico.
As a 3 time US shortboard champion I expected to be rusty after only getting in the water 5-6 times since last summer.
Doldrums surf, no kelp, morning and evening high tides, the outbreak, red tide, financial uncertainty.
That said, the breaks were beyond my physical ability at this time, sucking up take offs faster than I could catch and get to my feet.
These were NOT longboard waves, I brought a new 6’1” and got so winded trying to paddle out through overhead dumpers, I wasn’t ashamed, but could see the, use it or lose it message.
I eventually got some waves, but got thumped, mugged and raped as a Reminder I’m 74 years old and in Damn good shape.
Well guys, here I am in Scrips Encinitas, had a heart attack last night, I knew the hard breathing wasn’t a good sign while surfing last week.
I couldn’t get comfortable last night, my upper back and chest kept throbbing, I had made an appointment for today with my doc, didn’t get to see him
 

Tlri

Well-Known Member
Oct 30, 2017
444
503
Rhode island
Well guys, here I am in Scrips Encinitas, had a heart attack last night, I knew the hard breathing wasn’t a good sign while surfing last week.
I couldn’t get comfortable last night, my upper back and chest kept throbbing, I had made an appointment for today with my doc, didn’t get to see him

Nooo, feel better, glad you paid enough attention to your body to get yourself to the hospital.
 

Sax-son

Well-Known Member
Nov 23, 2019
527
469
Three Rivers, CA
Well guys, here I am in Scrips Encinitas, had a heart attack last night, I knew the hard breathing wasn’t a good sign while surfing last week.
I couldn’t get comfortable last night, my upper back and chest kept throbbing, I had made an appointment for today with my doc, didn’t get to see him

Oh boy! I know that feeling. About 5 years ago I was out with a couple of friends body surfing and just couldn't catch my breath. I thought to myself, I might be a little out of shape but I can't be that out of shape. Made an appointment with a cardiologist and they ran some tests. At first they couldn't find anything wrong, but the cardiologist had a hunch and ran an ultrasound. They discovered something called "shadowing" on the ultra sound. That was a dead giveaway that I had a blockage somewhere. I had to have an angiogram and they discovered I had almost a complete blockage in one main artery. They had a stint put in and I could almost feel an instant result. My breathing is was much easier.

The good news is that I still feel really good! These things don't come on all at once, it takes some time for all this stuff to build up and over time you live with it until you start having problems. I had to really change my diet around and cut way back on my drinking. I rarely eat any red meat or greasy food anymore. All that partying and late night activity finally caught up with me. Provided there is no damage to your heart, you should be able to get back to your normal self in no time. The marvel of modern medicine. Good luck and good health.
 

pintail

Active Member
Feb 19, 2004
784
215
LA, California
It's good that this was how your blocked coronary artery was discovered, rather than a massive heart attack down the road. Best wishes for a good recovery and renewed enjoyment of the ocean.
 

SMUKES

Well-Known Member
Jun 23, 2009
2,808
443
USA California
Well guys, here I am in Scrips Encinitas, had a heart attack last night, I knew the hard breathing wasn’t a good sign while surfing last week.
I couldn’t get comfortable last night, my upper back and chest kept throbbing, I had made an appointment for today with my doc, didn’t get to see him
Shit Jimmy, hope you are okay, you're more than just my shaper, you're my good good friend and teacher of radness.
 




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