You, Aging And Surfing

Discussion in 'Surfing' started by Veterano, Oct 6, 2020.

  1. Basenji703

    Basenji703 Well-Known Member

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    Apr 2, 2014
    Virginia Beach, VA
    I will be 71 next month. I am feeling my age, my two metal hips, my ripped and repaired ACL (Grade 5). I had this discussion with my friend John Parker today, so this tread is timely. John is 77 and hasn't been surfing as much as he had been in years past. He normally does a trip to El Salvador in January, but he isn't this year. We discussed our feelings on aging and we are in agreement. The alternative to aging is not so attractive. I am still pushing my limits at 71 (although they are different than those I had as a younger man) and bought myself a short board (an 8'6" Fowler NM) and I am learning to ride it. It is fun and challenging. I get up slower than I did as a 25 year old in Hawai'i, and I look back on my 50s fondly. I am still having fun and that's what counts. John, at 77 is as well.
     
  2. pintail

    pintail Active Member

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    LA, California
    Hitting 70 changes the outlook. I'm more selective about the conditions and more realistic about my limits. But I love riding my 6-0 to 6-4 boards too much to slide back into riding longer boards, although lately, I've been looking at 1st point Malibu differently, and have put the fins back into my only longboard. Haven't waxed it yet, haha. I think maybe I'm afraid to ride it.
     
  3. SeniorGrom

    SeniorGrom Well-Known Member

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    USA New Jersey
    Turned 70 in June. Got hooked in 1964 at 14. Not living on the coast but being 2 hrs away meant meant learning slowly and listening to the marine radio for stormy conditions off the NJ coast. At 17 I decided to work Summer jobs in this coastal town to be closer. Many of these jobs provided room and board back then as part of the compensation. My skills improved during the couple of years at the end of longboarding and into shortboards ‘68-‘71. At some point during college years about 1970 or 71 I decided money was necessary and became a Summer US Steelworker back home. So, I got ok at longboarding, ok at shortboarding, traveling to the inconsistent conditions. The stoke lived on even going to school in Ohio. Long story short....ha....I quit surfing at 30 after riding big Honolua Bay in 1980. Married 3 years already we started a family (2 boys). Switched gears for 20 to shotgun sports, gun dogs, upland hunting, and skiing (with family). During a Summer beach rental the bug bit again and it was like I never left! The equipment was more versatile. Any way now after 20 years back at it we’re both retired and living 5 minutes from the beach, 15 to many of my favorite breaks still here in New Jersey. No debilitating injuries but a couple of fairly serious medical issues made retiring at 64 a reality. Totally stoked about surfing still but more and more realistic about my place in the lineup especially when the waves are firing. There’s a fair amount of local young surfing talent here both on longboards and short. I tend to surf breaks now with a softer wave but relish big days out near the jetties watching the pack from my second peak location. So fun to watch these air drops taking off in the lip! I’m slower to pop-up these days riding long and mid-lenghts. How many waves can you remember from one session anyway so now my take aways are just a feeling or two or three. That view of the lip, a floater, power in the pocket, hand dragging the lip line, a cutty throwing spray, weightless off the bottom turn walking into trim, or for me fin and rail locked controlling the board standing perched on the tip. Fun stuff and checking the forecast hoping for beautiful glassy conditions and chatting it up like yesterday.
     
    WillieP, Bryce, shadydave and 9 others like this.
  4. cuda

    cuda Well-Known Member

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    Aug 23, 2007
    Nice thoughts and great picture veterano.(T).
     
  5. NJ Longboarder

    NJ Longboarder Well-Known Member

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    Jan 3, 2005
    I'm not getting old. Every new day is just a new adventure and surprise to see what hurts next.
     
    njrider, Chilly Willy and pintail like this.
  6. Ricksurfin

    Ricksurfin Well-Known Member

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    Jun 9, 2019
    San Clemente, CA
    I want to surf with all you old broken guys, maybe I can get some waves. Lol
     
  7. nedsurf

    nedsurf Well-Known Member

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    A piece of advice for those that have aches and pains - be very careful of overuse of NSAIDs. They are kidney killers. Lived on a healthy dose for years due to trauma, appreciated the relief for a somewhat normal life, but kidneys are now hurting and they don't recover. There are more friendly ways to deal with pain and inflammation, look into this if you are in that situation. My 2 centavos.
     
  8. weberrider

    weberrider Active Member

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    Mar 18, 2006
    I just turned 62. I am surfing 4 or 5 days each week. About the only age related change to my actual surfing has been the thickness of my boards. Because I went a little thicker, my wave count is as good or better than ever. I usually surf for around 2 hours and once in a while, I stay out for 3 hours. I also have about a 3/4 mile uphill walk to end each session. So far, so good. I have also added yoga stretches to my daily workout routine. It has helped my pop ups a lot and has also minimized my post surf soreness.
     
  9. Planktom

    Planktom Well-Known Member

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    Dec 27, 2016
    Devon, UK
    Good for you man, that's how to do it!
     
  10. pintail

    pintail Active Member

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    Feb 19, 2004
    LA, California
    And if overused, Tylenol or other acetaminophen containing drugs can cause liver damage.
     

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