Walden, Nsp or Nelson

Bongadav

New Member
Apr 12, 2022
14
13
Uk
I went local for the 10'longboard. Gave him my 9'6 Weber and asked him to make a 10' copy.
BUT, surfing a classic secret spot in Portugal (not on a longboard) I got caught inside by the set from hell. From a fun 5' to a well over 12' , 5 wave set.
Semiluxated (particularly dislocated) my hip on the 2nd wave.
I was with 2 locals who swam me in. My leash and board had snapped, long gone.
I couldn't swim because of my hip. Without those two heroes I'd have died. They deserve all the medals they can fit around their necks. My pair of guardian angels.
And one was a doctor who strapped me up and gave me serious painkillers, God bless him.
So I'm out of the water again for a several months.
I'm not blessed with good luck.
 

davey

Well-Known Member
Jun 9, 2007
629
416
Australia
I went local for the 10'longboard. Gave him my 9'6 Weber and asked him to make a 10' copy.
BUT, surfing a classic secret spot in Portugal (not on a longboard) I got caught inside by the set from hell. From a fun 5' to a well over 12' , 5 wave set.
Semiluxated (particularly dislocated) my hip on the 2nd wave.
I was with 2 locals who swam me in. My leash and board had snapped, long gone.
I couldn't swim because of my hip. Without those two heroes I'd have died. They deserve all the medals they can fit around their necks. My pair of guardian angels.
And one was a doctor who strapped me up and gave me serious painkillers, God bless him.
So I'm out of the water again for a several months.
I'm not blessed with good luck.
You survived, live to surf another day. I reckon your a legend.
 

surf1ng

Active Member
Jan 22, 2022
252
228
rAdelaide AU
I went local for the 10'longboard. Gave him my 9'6 Weber and asked him to make a 10' copy.
BUT, surfing a classic secret spot in Portugal (not on a longboard) I got caught inside by the set from hell. From a fun 5' to a well over 12' , 5 wave set.
Semiluxated (particularly dislocated) my hip on the 2nd wave.
I was with 2 locals who swam me in. My leash and board had snapped, long gone.
I couldn't swim because of my hip. Without those two heroes I'd have died. They deserve all the medals they can fit around their necks. My pair of guardian angels.
And one was a doctor who strapped me up and gave me serious painkillers, God bless him.
So I'm out of the water again for a several months.
I'm not blessed with good luck.
Sorry to hear about your injury… those locals are legends. All the best with your recovery.
 

Bongadav

New Member
Apr 12, 2022
14
13
Uk
Yes very lucky.
Dr. Rogerio , Roger contacted me to find out how I was. Great bloke.
He asked when I was coming out again, the surf is pumping!
Not for a long time. It's going to take a lot for me to overcome my fear of that spot.
And most of you lot wouldn't bat an eyelid at surfing those waves, and get back out there.
You have my respect.

Ps. Sorry my hip was subluxated.... partial dislocation
 




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