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Discussion in 'Surfing' started by miscreant, Jun 17, 2016.
Pieter Surfboards out of Australia. Balsa fifties pig, and a sixties pig.
Quick turnaround. By the time it’s shipped, the price is still less than, or equal to what you’d pay for anything remotely comparable here. Pieter and Kim are quality humans.
Dawn patrol this morning with two buddies. It was pouring rain but warm and the waves looked "maybe okay". We paddled out and the hoots began. Chest high plus, juicier, steeper, and way better than it looked. I definitely wasn't on top of my game and kooked out a few times -- most notably when I went to go put on my very tight wetsuit and realized that it was so tight because I had successfully put my leg into the arm sleeve. (Hey, gimme a break, these things happen in the 5:00 hour.) I did drop into a few bigger ones where it was just a beautiful right ramp tapering perfectly. Gotta love that view. Stoked!
I satisfied my flat spell surf starvation this morning with some knee high crumblers. It wasn't much but enough to scratch the itch. With the tide shutting it down by 6:30, it was either get there early or get nothing. Glad to be in the "get there early" category -- I got to look over the top of the wave that I was riding and see the sun as just a semicircle breaking the horizon. I'll take it.
Went fishing at 4:30 (1hour before sunrise) and then paddled out as the sun began to rise caught a couple. Only way to get some glide was to take off behind the peak and try and hit the nose or turn into the white wash before the wave turded out. A couple waves “went” but I didn’t dare leave the middle of the board. On the road to work by 6:30, stoked.
some water moving around today.