User-Friendly or Favorite Board for Noseriding?

[Proper_Mode]

I’m going to quote myself to say........

“In reality, (& ive posted this a million times on here) you can noseride almost anything, its just footwork and positioning which only comes with lots of purposeful practice. Theres no magic bullet”

I’ll add that I would love to try a peto pig or an Elmore Sam. The grant noble logs look fun too.

Just tell Tim where you wanna surf and what you wanna do. He actually responds to emails!

I went with his model recommendation and asked him to step/thin the tail. He’s shaped/designed a few logs in his day.

I wish the finish was uniform or polished but it’s holding up and super affordable for a custom rider.

Also wish I had a much lighter color on the deck it’s a wax melter in summer but looks so good in the water.

 

[Outside]

Afternoon edit at end : Nice looking board, and attractive fabric work by your Glasser. If by "uniform finish" you mean the blue streaks in the glassing, I've found that blue seems to be one of the trickiest resin tint colors to use. The darker and more opaque the color, the easier it seems to get good color saturation since one can hide the streaks from initial applications by leaving the cloth wetter as the resin is squeegeed out. Coke bottle green and Ice blue tints look beautiful and, by virtue of their lower pigment content, seem harder to streak. Occasionally I have had boards where a more muted tint was wanted and if a tiny bit of black was added to red or blue tints, this would need to be really homogenized before using to minimize streaks. Any imperfections in the foam surface are clearly telegraphed through the glass and an ounce of prevention making certain the blank is baby's ass smooth helps a lot. If the foam next to the stringer is uneven it can add another visual distraction. I've seen Glassers gently depress the foam on either side of the stringer with a hand tool to create a very tiny resin pool immediately next to the stringer, on both the deck and bottom. Finally, the bigger the T-band stringer the greater likelyhood that one tool or another is going to find the cross grain somewhere along the stringer and a hand plane can chatter and chop up the foam at this location. The cool thing is watching Laminators match the deck and bottom colors, highlighting the thicker fabric on the rails, and their artistic touch on fin, tail, knee, or 3/4 patches. Yours looks to have been done beautifully. I didn't want to sidetrack your thread but thought this reply was appropriate in view of the comment. -----------------Ive been spoiled and educated by my friends who allowed me in their shaping and glassing rooms while my boards were being crafted and glassed probably 25+ times and every time I come away with respect and appreciation for the skill it takes to have these come out so well while making the process look easy. "Hey Doc, feel this rail, is that what you were looking for?"

 

[SeniorGrom]

Nice looking board, and attractive fabric work by your Glasser. If by "uniform finish" you mean the blue streaks in the glassing, I've found that blue seems to be one of the trickiest resin tint colors to use. The darker and more opaque the color, the easier it seems to get good color saturation since one can hide the streaks from initial applications by leaving the cloth wetter as the resin is squeegeed out. Coke bottle green and Ice blue tints look beautiful and, by virtue of their lower pigment content, seem harder to streak. Occasionally I have had boards where a more muted tint was wanted and if a tiny bit of black was added to red or blue tints, this would need to be really homogenized before using to minimize streaks. Any imperfections in the foam surface are clearly telegraphed through the glass and an ounce of prevention making certain the blank is baby's ass smooth helps a lot. Finally, if the foam next to the stringer is uneven it can add another visual distraction. I've seen Glassers gently depress the foam on either side of the stringer with a hand tool to create a very tiny resin pool immediately next to the stringer, on both the deck and bottom. Finally, the bigger the T-band stringer the greater likelyhood that one tool or another is going to find the cross grain somewhere along the stringer and a hand plane can chop up the foam at this location. The cool thing is watching Laminators match the deck and bottom colors, highlighting the thicker fabric on the rails, and their artistic touch on fin, tail, knee, or 3/4 patches. Yours looks to have been done beautifully. I didn't want to sidetrack your thread but thought this reply was appropriate in view of the comment.

Great explanation. I read on Swaylocks years ago that the color yellow is the ‘laminators friend’. Most likely because it tends to hide imperfections. My only exception to owning boards with lighter colors was ordering a Blue Max from JP. Said I want it close to the Blue Machine. The result was incredible with a totally flawless colbalt blue tint & impeccable cutlaps. I do have to be very careful with sun and heat though. It has become a cool weather/dawn patrol only use board.

Oh yeah, excellent noserider too!

 

[Proper_Mode]

Nice looking board, and attractive fabric work by your Glasser. If by "uniform finish" you mean the blue streaks in the glassing, I've found that blue seems to be one of the trickiest resin tint colors to use. The darker and more opaque the color, the easier it seems to get good color saturation since one can hide the streaks from initial applications by leaving the cloth wetter as the resin is squeegeed out. Coke bottle green and Ice blue tints look beautiful and, by virtue of their lower pigment content, seem harder to streak. Occasionally I have had boards where a more muted tint was wanted and if a tiny bit of black was added to red or blue tints, this would need to be really homogenized before using to minimize streaks. Any imperfections in the foam surface are clearly telegraphed through the glass and an ounce of prevention making certain the blank is baby's ass smooth helps a lot. Finally, if the foam next to the stringer is uneven it can add another visual distraction. I've seen Glassers gently depress the foam on either side of the stringer with a hand tool to create a very tiny resin pool immediately next to the stringer, on both the deck and bottom. Finally, the bigger the T-band stringer the greater likelyhood that one tool or another is going to find the cross grain somewhere along the stringer and a hand plane can chop up the foam at this location. The cool thing is watching Laminators match the deck and bottom colors, highlighting the thicker fabric on the rails, and their artistic touch on fin, tail, knee, or 3/4 patches. Yours looks to have been done beautifully. I didn't want to sidetrack your thread but thought this reply was appropriate in view of the comment.

Thank you for the perspective. Didn’t know the reason for the streaks and my first darker colored custom tint that I picked from the big book of swatches. I should clarify it is wet sanded as well.

Still searching for my perfect fin but this is his el dorado, nose concave no hard edges and just right for slower paced waves

 

[ks77]

Thank you for the perspective. Didn’t know the reason for the streaks and my first darker colored custom tint that I picked from the big book of swatches. I should clarify it is wet sanded as well.

Still searching for my perfect fin but this is his el dorado, nose concave no hard edges and just right for slower paced waves

This El Dorado is the board I should've ordered when I got my Bridge. The Bridge did exactly as Tim explained and what I described to him I wanted.... Of course, what I thought I wanted and what I actually wanted after getting the board in the water were different things. I'll second that Tim was great to communicate with. Without fail, he would email each morning answering the previous day's question as we worked on the order and was very patient.

 

[Proper_Mode]

This El Dorado is the board I should've ordered when I got my Bridge. The Bridge did exactly as Tim explained and what I described to him I wanted.... Of course, what I thought I wanted and what I actually wanted after getting the board in the water were different things. I'll second that Tim was great to communicate with. Without fail, he would email each morning answering the previous day's question as we worked on the order and was very patient.

You’re welcome to give it a whirl

 

[Avsurfer]

I have a Dewey Weber Performer. Been riding it for last 25 years. Great board and stable noserider

 

[sightpoint]

Bing Trimulux maybe? Such an easy and fun board to surf.

From the Bing site: "If you're looking for an introductory noserider but still want to turn on a dime without all the weight of a traditional board, this is it."

 

[Sky]

Going to be the odd one out and say my 50’s style pig. Its not a super easy board to nose-ride, but it is nose-rideable. Requires you to get right into the pocket with its narrow nose. Its been a learning curve, but super fun to try and figure out. Also the D fin makes the board very stable in trim.

 

[northseacruiser]

How user-friendly is the Zeph/Bing Isis?