The Guardian Does Lunada Bay

Murph

New Member
Feb 17, 2004
94
1
USA California
I drive by this spot everyday and have absolutely no interest in it. Except at sunset when I'm walking my dog. It's not my spot... and I'm fine with it. I may be completely wrong here but I watch this spot a ton...My Son goes to school a block away and I'm just not that interested in a spot that's a lake for 10 months of the year and you've got to hike your ass down a cliff and deal with a bunch of bullshit...when I can drive five minutes down the street and surf year round with a bunch of kooks that are having the time of their lives. SUP's, Paddlers, Kayaks, Longboards, Girls in bikini's... smiles all around...
 

Matty

Member
Oct 5, 2011
80
16
krug1 wrote:
TonyPR wrote:
Go there with some puerto ricans with sharp machetes, if someone hassles you challenge him to "un duelo jíbaro" a countryman duel, these took place on the 19 th century in the mountains of PR. Each participant has their non dominant hand tied behind their back and is given a sharp machete to hold on the other hand and then they go at it till death... Must be done up in the hills with no cameras around... See if anyone is macho enough to accept...
This reminds me of "Thunder Dome" justice-2 men enter 1 man leaves!
They are yapping dog pack, will do anything but accepting mano I mano offer.
 

Matty

Member
Oct 5, 2011
80
16
Murph wrote:
I drive by this spot everyday and have absolutely no interest in it. Except at sunset when I'm walking my dog. It's not my spot... and I'm fine with it. I may be completely wrong here but I watch this spot a ton...My Son goes to school a block away and I'm just not that interested in a spot that's a lake for 10 months of the year and you've got to hike your ass down a cliff and deal with a bunch of bulls&*t...when I can drive five minutes down the street and surf year round with a bunch of kooks that are having the time of their lives. SUP's, Paddlers, Kayaks, Longboards, Girls in bikini's... smiles all around...
hey that's 'my' secret spot , or baldy the seal, hehe
 

icecreamheadache

Well-Known Member
Jan 14, 2006
502
632
Cracks me up some fuckwit redcoat goes to the most localized spot in the entire region and then gets all whiney when the expected happens. Guess he was all bummed he didn't get to write one of those rosy bullshit feel good articles The Inertia so loves. "I went somewhere controversial that you shouldn't/wouldn't go. I am a unique, worthwhile individual. I showed respect and the locals warmed to me and expanded a wholehearted aloha to me. As we sat around the cliff and drank beers, the sun setting in the west and I said to myself 'There's nothing like tasty waves, tasty brews and new friends.'"

The whole "I should be able to surf anywhere, anytime" mindset is the same upper caste colonial entitlement sense that rich kids whose parents can afford to live by the beach have. Given what has happened to surf spots up and down the west coast, I wholeheartedly support (and defend in criminal court) every act of working class intimidation, regulation and thuggery that stops the rising tide of douchebags. Just because you have a car and a surfboard and search out a place on Wannasurf doesn't give you the right to paddle into a community like motherfucking Cortez but without your hot malinche. A whole lot of guys (and girls) who build lives around a particular wave have relationships with the place that is far deeper and far more intense than just fun. Your search for fun or whatever masculine manifest destiny attitude you picked up from the surf media doesn't necessarily give you God's blessing to muck up someone else's scene any more than it entitles you to go into La Colonia or Leimert Park or Bed-Stuy and start telling those uncivilized kids with tattoos on their faces that they have to accept you because hey, parks are all about fun and as a white, upper caste american, I have the right to go and do as I please thank you very much.

Just like the colonial "explorers" of yesteryear sailing into new worlds that had been inhabited and civilized for 20,000 years, surfers often think of themselves as explorers going into new and uncharted waters that have surf cultures far older than they have any idea. I grew up in an extremely small surfing culture that had a few spots that got good only occasionally. Like all good waves, these places had extremely small take off zones and a well established pecking order that did not have room for kids from California or Vancouver on spring break "surfari" treating our homes and communities the same way Africans get treated by pasty white people, camcorders pointed in our faces and all. So we defended our spots by letting the older guys throw punches and stuff kids into the rocks and shoot the noses off lil' thrusters with 12 gauges while we jacked their cars and stole anything they weren't carrying the moment they turned their backs and took shits on the seats of their cars after we smashed all the windows out. Those dudes not only never came back, but they took home with the word about the fucking asshole tweaker thieves that lurked around those spots.

It's been six years since I moved away from there and I still see some of the boys at sketchy B-list spots in Mexico (there being no economy in that part of the post-industrial rust belt, they don't have enough money to get very far) and the thing I noticed about the gnarliest of our tweaker locals? They are respectful as shit when they travel and they don't even attempt going to spots that other people are defending. I have some of the same things going here in SoCal. There are a stack of spots I can ride my bike to that I don't surf because they have an aggressive neighborhood crew on them the moment they break. Do I put on my three pointed hat, grab a news crew and head in there like queen fucking Isabel and the pope ordained me to colonize a spot with a sucking takeoff into a shallow barrel that more often than not pinches shut? No. Because there are 15 other spots within an easy beach cruiser ride and with those other options, I have no right to piss on someone else's parade.

I get cases every now and again in criminal court where some outsider gets his nose broken or his car trashed for being a kook. Our DA's office is the most proto-fascist, prison/death penalty happy organization in a proto-fascist, prison/death penalty happy state and they regularly charge these blokes, all working class, all third or fourth generation here, with felony strikes and PC§186.22 gang enhancements for doing the same shit Hawaiians get props for doing. Some fuckhead from LA backpaddles your wife at a dredging barrel spot, shouts her off the wave and then bails on the takeoff? You paddle up and tell him to fuck off. He starts talking shit to you so you slug him in the nose. When he starts whining and saying he didn't see her (even though he flagrantly checked out her ass as he was backpaddling her), your brother and two cousins paddle up and politely ask him to get the fuck out of the water. He paddles in and instead of leaving with a lesson learned that you don't backpaddle anyone, but especially a woman and doubly especially at a notoriously localized spot, an hour later tries to start shit with you on the sidewalk. Rich white people still think the world is theirs and he cannot fathom the idea that he, a dermatologist from Encino, would be asked to leave the water after committing a flagrant violation of surf ethics at a tiny ass spot he never would have found but for some kook putting it up on youtube. When your apology is not forthcoming he shoves you and ends up getting the living fuck kicked out of him. Broken nose. Broken orbital sockets. A few missing teeth. The cops come to your house later based on running the license plate the "victim" called in. They notice your knuckles are skinned from bouncing off the prick's teeth and take you in. DA charges you with PC§245 and PC §422 with gross bodily injury and street terrorism enhancements. You get out on $200,000 bail because you have no record and have spent your entire life in town. Your public defender subpoenas "the victim" to every single court date making the prick drive his Audi station wagon up every week and thus ensuring that his car will be vandalized in the parking lot at least twice by the local methheads who patrol the courthouse parking lot looking for anything left in cars. The case goes to jury trial and the defense attorney makes sure to burn through three complete jury panels because hey, this is a three strikes case and a bloke could go to prison for 15 to life for the same shit the entire surfing world romantacizes the Pipeline Posse and Bra Boys and da Hui and Sunny Garcia for. But apparently if it's working class white guys doing the same regulation in California at spots they and their family have been surfing longer than any Hawaiian has been surfing on the North Shore it's somehow different and worthy of enmity. And the public defender grills the "victim" on the stand for two days and calls in three expert witnesses from the local surf community and after 45 minutes of deliberation, the jury comes back with not guilties on all the felonies and a single guilty on a lesser included for misdemeanor battery which gets you three years of summary probation and an order to not associate with a surf club that hasn't existed in 20 years. The baliffs (who surf, but not that spot) whisper to the victim that he better not come back to our little shit town because they would have kicked the shit out of him too.

Just as our world is being overrun by generalist species like english sparrows, feral cats and starthistle, our surf spots are being overrun by a generalist species of disrespectful, over-entitled scumfuck who are slowly turning every lineup they invade into visions of Malibu at its worst. Just as we should love and respect the lowly California Pocket Mouse and the Lesser Tern and the hated Snowy Plover, we might want to reconsider our hatred for localized spots and instead treat them as anachronisms of biological diversity that will eventually be destroyed by the same pressures of over-population and resource scarcity that are ushering in our latest wave of extinctions. One day, when Brazilians run Pipeline and Rincon and Church and men in the stupid hats and popout funboards run everywhere else, we will look back on places like Lunada Bay the same way we look back on traditional Navaho hogans and US economic prosperity with a sad fondness for the loss of something interesting or different from the homogenous horde...
 

Killafornia

Well-Known Member
Oct 1, 2009
859
353
"I want to do it, so I'm going to".
It's everywhere, not just surfing.
The one's that have been in that lifestyle, have learned the etiquette through time are the one's that pay the price.
I saw it in Glamis. You have the "desert rat's". The one's that grew up going to the dunes. Know how to set up camp so as not to encroach on anyone. Know how to ride "away from" camp.know how to teach their kids to ride. Know how to conduct themselves on the dunes.
Than you have the one's that refinanced or came into money and "bought" their way into Glamis. These are the one's that you hear setting up camp 20' from yours at 1am. All new shit. Don't know how to work on any of it. Letting their kids ride thru your camp. Run amuck all over the dunes. Causing sometimes fatal accidents. Treating the place like shit. Just basically ruining the vibe.
I see it on the ocean
You have the one's that grew up on the ocean. Or, learned by time on the water (totw). Know how to operate their vessel. Know how to find fish. Know how to approach someone already fishing.
Than you have the ones that "bought" their way onto the water. Don't know how to operate their vessel. Expect everyone to get out of "their" way. Look for stopped boats to find fish. Poach their chum line. Shut down the bite. If they do catch a fish, post it on the web so 100 more of the same assholes bomb the spot the next day. Than bitch about the crowd.

What I'm pointing out is that I see it everywhere.

Like someone said before, you can't start at the top. Start down the beach, work your way into the line up as your skills improve. By that time you'll know what to do and what not to do. You'll know where to surf and where not to.
It's hard to look the other way. When you do they multiply.
 

SMUKES

Well-Known Member
Jun 23, 2009
3,681
2,522
USA California
*Least Turn...

mmmmmm...glamis. "i like the way your sparrrrrklin eeeeearings lay on yer ski-in so brown" Atc's n micky's bigmouths and shitty weed stuck on a alligator roach clip with a turkey feather lanyard attached that hung off a 20 dollar "cowboy" hat she got at the gas station to keep all that feathered hair back outta her face cuz it sticks to that strawberry bonnie bell lip smacker gloss all over those lips when she bounces up in first gear on the 90. Terry cloth onezy with a draw string across the top her tits tied in a bow. I had an XR75 then a YZ80 my dad bought from our neighbor. I hate the fuckin eagles but glamis in 1977... Pat Travers, Molly Hatchet... good times. "Stay sweet and have a bitchen summer"
 

SdSurferguy

Well-Known Member
Oct 18, 2006
1,911
2,197
USA
SMUKES wrote:
*Least Turn...

mmmmmm...glamis. "i like the way your sparrrrrklin eeeeearings lay on yer ski-in so brown" Atc's n micky's bigmouths and s&*tty weed stuck on a alligator roach clip with a turkey feather lanyard attached that hung off a 20 dollar "cowboy" hat she got at the gas station to keep all that feathered hair back outta her face cuz it sticks to that strawberry bonnie bell lip smacker gloss all over those lips when she bounces up in first gear on the 90. Terry cloth onezy with a draw string across the top her tits tied in a bow. I had an XR75 then a YZ80 my dad bought from our neighbor. I hate the f#%kin eagles but glamis in 1977... Pat Travers, Molly Hatchet... good times. "Stay sweet and have a bitchen summer"
A tougher get was Townes Van Zandt's cover of the Rolling Stones' "Dead Flowers," which plays over Lebowski[/i]'s closing credits. "[Former Stones manager] Allen Klein owns the rights to it," Burnett says. "He wanted $150,000." Burnett begged Klein to just come down and watch an early cut of Lebowski[/i]. "It got to the part where the Dude says, 'I hate the fuckin' Eagles, man!' Klein stands up and says, 'That's it, you can have the song!' That was beautiful." For the record, Burnett agrees with the Dude ("[The Eagles] sort of single-handedly destroyed that whole scene that was brewing back then," he says), but the line infuriated Glenn Frey. "I ran into [Frey] and he gave me some shit," Jeff Bridges says. "I can't remember what he said exactly, but my anus tightened a bit."

Read more: http://www.rollingstone.com/movies/news/inside-the-dudes-stoner-soundtrack-19691231#ixzz3b8M5K7FA
 




Top