Surfing’s meaning

miscreant

Well-Known Member
May 20, 2016
2,498
1,171
Johnny Borbone’s audio on that video he just posted got me thinking.

Surfing means something to all of us.

It has meant different things to me at various stages of my life. My motivations and my inspiration changes.

Y’all care to post up what it means to you?
 

michael

Well-Known Member
Apr 19, 2017
1,519
1,591
NJ
Meditation, “happy place”, recharging my batteries, “seeing the therapist”, plugging into the universe, checking my issues and bothers at the door for a short time... and maybe forgetting to pick them up afterwards on the way out.

nothing as cohesive or well thought out as JB’s video, but just some ways it’s meaningful to me.
 

DJR

Well-Known Member
Feb 1, 2018
707
756
Carolina Beach NC
The meditation. The sussing out of issues. The decompression. Washing the shit of the day off. Finding the Ox. Perpetual smile. Balance in all for me. And it’s just a hoot.
 

Surfnfish

Well-Known Member
Feb 6, 2015
1,685
2,063
a quiet cabin in the woods
wide awake at 3 am, riding the pain waves of a cracked tooth that couldn't get scheduled for a yank until Monday...codeine brain musing as to why we surf, what drives the junkie to keep reaching for the needle, the absolute need to be in a space where nothing else matters...

as to the act of surfing...30 million surfers, and no two surf exactly alike, just as when 30 million people dance, no two do so alike. Similar, yes, alike, no.

When we dance, when we find ourselves suddenly drawn to the dance floor, as a deeply imprinted song (Cold Sweat by James Brown works for me) reflexively triggers the basal ganglia and the somatosensory and motor cortex begin firing synapses to do dat shuffle to dat beat that is uniquely ours...some like Travolta, others like Elaine...reaching for the groove, that place..

And no different in the lineup...some flowing down the line with grace and alacrity, others herking and jerking their way along...can't pick our genes or how they will physically express themselves, and that's ok...for as much as we want to impress, the real drive in both dance and surf is to transcend through movement to a place we cannot reach by any other means, a place where it's all good and we are in the f'n groove...

and maybe that's both the how and the why..
 

T-Bone

Active Member
Apr 7, 2005
466
120
USA - Beachwood, New Jersey
An unknown gift (Escape) from my daughter, that she won’t probably ever know the true depths of. A way to conquer anxiety, stress, and numb pain. Peace, tranquility, and medication for the body and soul. Fun, joy, (and if your focus is off frustration) the enjoyment of creation and the ocean and a contemplation of what lies beneath.
 




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