Surfboard glassing schedule preferences


Active Member
Apr 11, 2020
Ocean City, NJ
Wondering if folks here have a preference between light versus heavy glassing and why.

I have a board on order and the shaper (Wayne Rich) recommended/suggested considering S-glass. I’ve leaned towards heavier glass, but maybe not as heavy as Davenport where I feel like I need a crane to get into the water.

I’d love to hear others thoughts.
I did an order of Wayne Rich boards through CI last year for our shop and I didn’t notice they had been glasses with 6x4 decks. Worst idea ever, bought my fiancé a wildcard, she is nowhere near as heavy footed as me (6’2” 210lbs) and the deck looks like it was left out in a hail storm for a week. Really a bummer to see people cheap out on glass schedules. Always go at minimum 6x6 on anything over 9’.


Active Member
May 11, 2018
Dana Point, Ca
Good topic

To me quality will always correlate with weight. Doesn’t matter if it’s a gun, a piece of furniture, or surfboard. Logically I know that isn’t always the case, but something with heft feels more permanent to me, and that is something highly desired in a handmade product. The fact that surfboard can literally last a lifetime goes with that. That said, no one is keeping and surfing a potato chip 90’s comp glassed shortboard for a lifetime.

My “short boards“ as in anything not requiring a lot of foot movement and focused on performance will usually be in 6s+6s/6s

Longer mid lengths or shorter longboards like my vaquero= 7.5 volan + 6s/ 7.5 volan. Enough weight to build momentum and push off, but light enough to throw around a bit.

regular longboards 8+8/8 all volan. This is my sweet spot.

Specialized boards like my Davenport go to the far extreme, 10+10/ 10 with rail caps. Again, more specialized and not necessarily everyday use.

This is all my preferences, also predicated by the fact I’m a bigger guy and have the power to move around more weight under my feet.

All that said, still trying to decide on my new 10’6 performance glider weight.
Nice confirmation bias. I’ve asked Adam to do the glassing in 8 oz volan.


Aug 8, 2019
Bodega Bay
Rich Harbour had some great analysis on his site some years ago. You can glass 30 oz glass or 2 oz glass over concrete and hit it with a hammer and the thickness of the glass don't matter. Or you can put the same cloth over something softer and the hammer smashes all. The density of the foam resists dings and delams. If delam is the issue, go heavier foam with lighter glass. If board breakage is the deal, and you want to be more hi pro, then go lighter foam and heavier glass. The ONLY board that I have had to throw away from being delammed and not worth the repair is the one that I had specifically glassed as 6+6 S on deck and 6 S on bottom. I paid more for what I was told was supposed to be "bomb proof" by a fellow Jamboard guy. Why did it fail? Well, according to Rich Harbour, S glass has great "memory" so it is actually bad to use on a deck. This is because the foam WILL get dented and the glass will want to pull back up to its original shape, = DELAM! Rich was correct. Use S glass as a layer on the bottom and maybe only one of the top layers if you use it at all. Think about foam density instead with a simple 6+4 deck and 6 oz bottom.


Well-Known Member
Jan 8, 2016
USA California
Dave Parmenter mentioned pu blanks have like a harder outer crust that is more resistant to pressure dents. So removing more material from the surface during shaping could make it more susceptible to pressures. I had a stub vector from him that was rock solid with double 6 deck and 6 bottom all s glass, but i think the finished weight was counter productive to the design. My bonzer is glassed with 6x4 deck and 4 oz bottom all s glass and feels nice. No damage yet.