100% agree...Also, something refreshing about surfing my home break of San Onofre is that there’s older guys that don’t give a shit about the perception of others. There’s guys in hats, gloves, sunscreen running down there face, riding old beat up boards that no one knows who made with wax piled high having as much fun as the grom next to them on his high dollar Gucci board.
Opened up my eyes, hence the sell off of my customs and stripping surfing down to what really matters, which is the FUN factor.
Yes, I’m the old kook on the pop out board (sometimes a custom) with the ear to ear smile sharing waves and good times at the beach in and out of the water.
i am just happy to live close to the water and surf.