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Discussion in 'Surfing' started by Freddibetts, Sep 15, 2020.
did we confirm liters yet on the board
I don't have supreme knowledge of the break where this happened. But most breaks in the NYC area are jetty set ups and they are all crowded with anything from pros to avg Joes. Rock-A-polco is a smorgasbord of grizzled locals, hipsters, wanna be hipsters and city people that want to learn to surf and ride the train out to the closest break, rent aboard and paddle out.
When we get anything over 3' there are a ton of people on every break and they all break pretty much the same. It is apparent that the middle is the impact zone. If you watch any of these breaks for more than 5 mins you can see guys paddling out on the jetty and ending their rides in the middle (impact zone). And for 90% of riders in this area it ends in close out, blow up, wipe out on a sand bar, 9% end with a floater and I end every ride with 540... I'm in the 1%.
IMO, our paddler got a lesson.
To me... paddling out in the middle is like walking down the middle of the street and being surprised you got hit by a car. It's a stupidity cost.
Leash or no leash is point less because of the congestion factor and board/leash length and the likely wave type (4-8 secs of shoulder and then close out).
"You are responsible for you" - Mom
Without casting blame one way or the other I have a personal take on the matter. I'm by no means a great or even notable surfer. I started surfing over summer vacations when I was 10 or 11 but didn't really get confident until I moved back to the beach about 5 1/2 years ago (30ish years old). For the first six months I did the crowded popular breaks with an average sized longboard on a leash. I absolutely hated every single aspect of surfing for those six months. Beyond the moments I was actually up and riding with no idiots dropping in, people paddling in the wrong spot, or the social scene dumpster fire, I was miserable. So I fixed it and started changing where I surfed, going to great lengths to find almost as good (sometimes better sometimes worse) breaks where no one surfed. I found joy, peace and solitude. Everything I love about surfing came rushing back. After another six months my confidence was up and I bought my first glider. I have ridden them almost exclusively for the last 4 1/2 years. I love not wearing a leash but I'm also painfully aware what can happen when I lose control of one of those boards. I know the burn after swimming in for the millionth time in one session. I've also seen the look of terror on peoples faces if my board is aimed in their general direction. I consider it my responsibility not to send Poseidon's 11' dick torpedoing towards someone's fragile skull or ego at a speed that could potentially kill. Control what I can and limit risk.
I intentionally surf alone and if there are crowds of swimmers (or surfers on the rare occasion) I put on a leash. It's like taking a shower with my socks on, don't like it. Big boards can be hard to control and sometimes physics win... As has been stated previously an 11' board, plus human plus leash still equals a pretty large danger zone. Rider has a responsibility to be aware, other surfers have a responsibility to be aware, swimmers don't typically know any better.
The paddler sounds like a dick, the rider probably could have handled it better... shit happens. Hopefully (at the least) the two people involved learned from their mistakes and make a full recovery. If I were the paddler I'd probably take the blame for being in the way. The rider (IMO, it's what I was taught) has priority and it's always my goal as a paddler to get out of the way. Plus, if someone was up and surfing and was that close to me moving that fast I'd be better prepared to avoid impact as opposed to taking one in the ribs. Paddler is lucky the rider didn't feel the need to prove a point and test how bad those ribs were.
Again, stick to something safer than surfing. And take down that avatar photo of Nat : )
Did someone say ribs? I friggin love ribs, slow cooked on the barbee. I've gravitated to St Louis style. Or beef, man don't get me started on beef ribs done right! And cold beer. I try to stay safe so I have a leash on my beer cozie, just in case.
I was back and forth but believe that if beginners/swimmers/people/tourists from Asia riding inflatable orcas are on the inside you have an inherent obligation to control your board. If you can ride leashless- great! But if you can't and lose your board when people are on the inside, you bear some responsibility. But this rider had a leash on- so this isn't the issue. That being said, on the rare occasions I find myself on the inside with a rider heading toward me, I have been taught and understand that my safety is on me. I got creamed by a short board a few weeks ago because the guy was stuck in the foam ball and trying to get out on the face. It wasn't his fault I was there, took a fin to my elbow and my opposite rib, but it was on me. The paddler deserves lickins for not owning that he should have been somewhere else- and whoever taught him should get a few too for not teaching better.
I think trying to apportion blame at all in this scenario is full-throttle stupidity.... accidents happen. Shit, spend a week at a skatepark and try not getting a loose board in the ankle.
The vehicle T-bone scenario is also interesting too. I drive a lot of country lanes with high hedges, and the general rule is that if you have a little tete-a-tete on a tight corner, you will be sorting that out with your own insurance and not taking the other person to Court. Maybe this is different in other countries, and that's a shame. Just take some responsibility.....
I have seen more carnage to other people in the sea from longboards tethered to beginner/improver surfers with a leash than from anything else, it's a falsity that wearing a legrope is always safer and it never seems to stop being propagated.
If folk really wanted to surf safely in crowds and mitigate any accidents, they would just use a mat and fins, so get off your high horses.
Surfing101 Never ever paddle back out through the impact zone. Always paddle around the area that people are surfing through. So many clueless and little rug rats (Romper Room) sit in the inside impact zone looking at you (deer in headlights) as you ride through them.
My board weighs 27# with an 11” fin. If hit, it will part your hair for the rest of your life. That’ll end your modeling career ♂️