Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Surfing' started by ilparadosso, Sep 26, 2008.
Now that I see the videos and pics - I really missed out. My lady and I did manage to catch some sweet head high surf the following week.
Is that Nedsurf?
Scout at SanO. More pictures on page 2 of the New Austin thread at:
I didn't take the pics but they were on my camera and it took me a hour to upload, fix (sort of), crop and post them so while there are a lot more of other people, it will be a while before I get them posted.
Very funny - you KNOW I am not goofy!
Okay the drink has worn off and the jet-lag nearly gone but memories of good times and stoke still live on thank god.
Yeah that calf muscle thing was weird, I still don't know whether it was the fin or the rail only that after the impact I felt around expecting a gash but no.
I continued surfing for around an hour later and the pain seemed to ease but that night pain began to show it's ugly face again so I befriended whiskey, rum and all sorts of beer purely for medicinal purposes . Don't ask me what time Benny, JD & myself shut down the camp only it sure was fun !
This was the night I discovered I had a twin brother and we were separated at birth, Ireland back in '69 was tough then and so mom had to ship one of us off, Log Donkey made it to NorCal and I was left peelin' spuds here in Ireland
When I awoke the following morning could hardly walk and over the next day or two all the blood drained from my calf muscle and down to my ankle causing it to swell up and give me a big blood bruise in my insole of my foot. More pussy whining Miles eh, ha ha ha
Went to a drug store to get something to ease the pain and get the swelling down but the pharmacist only gave me over the counter pain relief tabs (which I can understand) and a muscle rub cream, no anti inflammatories which I could have done with.
Sunday night myself Miles and the snoring ricans (A1 guys ) headed for this burger joint in San Clemente (Tommys) where the owner was a dead ringer of Ron Jeremy, maybe it was..... did one hell of a burger though I gotta say !
I headed down to Cardiff Monday and surfed it that night just about waist high.
I made San Elijo state park my home for four nights hopping from one site to the next and getting in que with all the others at 09:00 to book another night there, man that place is busy and you can just forget about getting a plot there over the weekend due to six months online bookings. You actually become immune to that god dang train go by.
Anyway, I headed into The Saloon in Encinitas on Thursday night played a few tunes on the jukebox and the barman complemented my choice telling me that Dr. John happened to be playing at Solana beach tomorrow night. Well that was that sorted for tomorrow night, a Dr. John gig (last saw him about ten years back where I travelled to Dublin specially) and some stealth camping. Good gig.
Oh yeah, I surfed Cardiff reef Friday morning where it was head high and veeery clean. I was in pole position for this one wave (a right) and would you believe it, some kook in a brown baseball cap dropped in on me, someone said he's name was something Tudor.
It was funny because I always thought he was goofy but it goes to show he's natural which ever way
Their was more stealth camping done outside the gates of San Elijo park where the ranger told me which side of the road to park so as to not get towed which I thought was well cool of him. I surfed Turtles and Pipes a lot there as their wasn't that many on it. Swamies was ridiculously crowded so I decided.. next year.
Back up to the 'bu for Sunday where it was really goin' off !
I was paddling out through Kiddies Pool thinkin'.. wow if I could get three waves to link up to here from second point I'll be well happy.
I saw one shortboarder get caught in a section with no one else on so I did a turn & burn and got this beautiful wave and I think I told ye overhead about the surf betty that cut back on me, DING.
Took the board outta the water then and observed some beautiful surfing that day, Oh... BTW Neddy, no leash from SanO Saturday onwards ha ha ha ha, ya got to me dude .
Malibu Carl inherited my seldom used 3x2 (which I later saw a price tag of $60 on it ) and Jimmy Gamboa inherited my little b-b-q grill with coals, god I'm such a name dropper
Returned Nalu Qst ("wave finder" and I gotta say it didn't let me down) to Bill and walked up those steps to the green & silver bottomed A330 Airbus to take me home feeling somewhat sad but more importantly, overjoyed at what I can honestly say was the best vacation I have ever had. I put that down to you Jammers and the welcome and craic we have shared. Jammers, long may we ride together.
Oh yeah, one more thing.... the ribs are on me next time Mark, too kind :dude:
Paudie - great story, sounds like a spectacular trip. Very glad to have met you.
Have to admit that Logdonkey/twin thing would keep me awake nights though. You must have been drinking some real bad sh#t.
I'm glad I went to sleep early now.
Great meeting you Potty and glad your injury didn't ruin your trip. I told my wife I met someone from Ireland and she's ready to go back.
murph, you gotta edit out the bottom of the board, then i mitta believe it.
hey vegaluga, i got hit in the spinxster with my fin and actually broke fin away from box. thank goodness for break-away fins nuts and good anal retention. the gash on my leg was slight, and happened in waist high surf were you usually get it after a few imperials and a more than enthusiastic set of companions agin you on after waiting all day for some little somethin to ride.