Morning of the Earth Surfboards


Well-Known Member
May 24, 2021
Bay Area, CA
We are all guilty of this, or at least i am and also hear it a lot: We order a custom board, spend a bunch of money, wait a super long time, only for the board to sit and to not be used because "it likes a good wave", even though we know that we rarely get big, perfect surf.
I'm literally in the process of refactoring my quiver for exactly this reason. I want to get down to 5-7 boards that work great for my region's typical conditions and a few trusted travel boards.


Active Member
Sep 30, 2020
Northern California
I also think it’s helpful to list our body type. I’m 36 years old, 5’7, 175 pounds, athletic build, and always in a ton of neoprene for our NorCal waters. Off the rack performance shortboards are not built for me. With that said, my 6’4” and 5’10” are reasonably good paddlers and i appreciate the weight of my MOTES.


Well-Known Member
Mar 24, 2021
Yeah I’m 26yrs old, 6’1’’ 155 lbs.

My Massive is 7’4 x 2 3/4 and could be thinned out a touch- hence why I would like another- longer and thinner. It’s a lot of board, although I do love the glide, and feel highly confident in big surf. These last rounds of big swell in SD have been epic at the reefs.

My Fiji is 6’6 x 2 5/8 which does feels a lot better for my size, even with the added stiffness and weight. It’s perfect size & thickness for me. It’s like a glove. I know exactly what this board is going to do.

Bruce Fowler

Well-Known Member
Jul 28, 2018
When Hamish Graham came to Santa Barbara many moons ago he was producing "Byrning Spears" label & his primary focus was DEEP Triple Channel Bottoms. They started showing up @ Rincon, and it wasn't long before nearly every board he was crafting was the multi channel bottom design.

Guys swore by them. I had my factory "the Surfing Underground" located in the Radon Boatyard and pretty much a monopoly on ding repair as everyone else didn't want to mess with waxed or tar stained boards on their factory glassing racks or in their sanding rooms. Everything was glass on fins back then and those side fins WERE A BITCH when they needed replacing! I charged $45 = 1/2 again more than a regular bottomed surfboard.

I'm really stoked to see Simon and Torren doing them and the other stuff they come up with to keep things fresh!

....keeps me inspired & lately I've been daydreaming about possibly doing a 'corrugated bottom' through the whole board back like when Colin Smith was doing some groovy bottoms.

BF Shaping 1972.jpg
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