Mid length for beginner progression + wave count

Kdw9736

New Member
Apr 18, 2021
12
4
North Carolina
I might be alone here, but I really don’t like riding my midlength in small waves (e.g. knee to waist as the OP points out). I’ll always grab my groveler, short and wide (5’6”, 22’), or a longboard. I find midlengths to be a lot more fun when it’s at least shoulder+. Nothing beats a longboard when it comes to wave count, my midlength wave count is no better than my groveler.

If you are looking to progress, it’s not just about going smaller. There are so many “advanced” maneuvers to master on a longboard.
Hm I'd be interested to hear anyone speak to this. When I was on that 6-8 beaver for a while I did notice it wasn't that fun once it got to be knee high and below, which makes sense. Why I'd still be getting use out of my current 9-6 for small days
 

jory

Well-Known Member
Dec 25, 2005
594
423
United Kingdom
So honest answer from me, my quiver choices are as follows.... ( 46, 5’6 and 150 ish )

stomach high and below - always a 9’4 ish single fin log (or occasionally a modified Simmons style quad 5’2ish if it’s too junky for much noseriding and I’m feeling fit

Stomach to shoulder high - depending on how busy and junky it is / lazy I feel, a fish or modified Simmons in the mid 5’ range or a longer mid length 7’6 - 7’10 ( outlier/ vaquero / longer egg) One is more active vertical Lines, the mid will be more lateral cruisey lines

over shoulder high then I break out my 6’10 takayama Howard egg - beautiful long swoop lines and no need to be looking for speed. Below shoulder high you CAN surf this board but it’s a bit pedestrian without a decent size face to draw on.
 

skurp

Member
Feb 11, 2021
82
91
San Diego
Hey all,

I've gotten a lot out of reading this forum the past few months, very cool place on the interwebs. I was hoping to tap into the wisdom of this community for my next board decision. Probably somewhere in 6.5-8 range?

I started surfing about 2 years ago - the first year I lived at the beach and was surfing more days than not. I progressed fast from a 8' foamie to a 6'8 Firewire Greedy Beaver a friend lent me, but now that I'm surfing just a few times a month I'm in a plateau/regression phase and am often disappointed with the amount of waves I'm getting, especially with that 2hr drive home.

I have 3 boards: an old 9'6 log, a 8' wavestorm that my wife mostly uses, and a 6'0 Trimcraft TRev I picked up from m8r last year (thanks man!). Lately I'm feeling like I could be getting more waves and having more fun on something in between. Whether it's a small day or it's bigger and just really crowded, I usually feel like I'm missing out. I want something that ups my wave count but also performs enough for me to work on my fundamental turning and speed flow. Hoping to get some shape rec's or even off-the-rack boards I can get shape ideas from. Thanks!
Hey man - you're getting some great advice on here. I'll give my $.02. Moved back to CA this time last year after 5 years in Manhattan - didn't surf once during that span. Jumped back on my 6'2" and it was really hard and frustrating - I was out of paddling shape, older, heavier, bad shoulder - blah blah. Spent a good 3 months trying to grind it out on my shorter boards and just wasn't progressing at all. Anyway, swallowed my pride and nabbed a fun board off craigslist (attached a picture of it) and started to progress more or less immediately on that board.

It's a custom - but the guy I bought it off of based the template off the Waterhog from Channel Islands at 7'8" - he made a few tweaks to the rocker, put a little more foam in the widepoint, sharpened the rails in the tail... anyway - it's been a great board for me - neutral and stable.

Dims are 7'8" X 22.25 X 3

Catches just about everything between 1-5ft. And I'm big as surfers go - 6'0 @215lbs - I think what I love about it is as I got better and got my skills and confidence back - the board had room for me to grow. Once I was getting my popups consistently and trimming down the line... I started working the tail, finding my cutbacks and top turns again, etc... even took it out during head-high winter swells in Oceanside (which is like Pipeline for my skill-level) and it held up fine. I've moved on to other board since, but I won't sell it.

Here's a review of the 7'0" from CI.


Also - there's a shaper in the Carolinas I follow on IG - Tim Jump - has great style and has some fun looking mid-length cruisers.


Good Luck!
 

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Budthedog

Active Member
Dec 22, 2020
136
164
California
That Fowler is a great option for what you’re looking for. Anecdotal evidence - my buddy who solely rode logs for years just got a 7’ NM and loves it, catches waves like crazy (and he’s a big dude), stable and forgiving and ton of fun. A 7’9... hot damn!
 

Kdw9736

New Member
Apr 18, 2021
12
4
North Carolina
Hey man - you're getting some great advice on here. I'll give my $.02. Moved back to CA this time last year after 5 years in Manhattan - didn't surf once during that span. Jumped back on my 6'2" and it was really hard and frustrating - I was out of paddling shape, older, heavier, bad shoulder - blah blah. Spent a good 3 months trying to grind it out on my shorter boards and just wasn't progressing at all. Anyway, swallowed my pride and nabbed a fun board off craigslist (attached a picture of it) and started to progress more or less immediately on that board.

It's a custom - but the guy I bought it off of based the template off the Waterhog from Channel Islands at 7'8" - he made a few tweaks to the rocker, put a little more foam in the widepoint, sharpened the rails in the tail... anyway - it's been a great board for me - neutral and stable.

Dims are 7'8" X 22.25 X 3

Catches just about everything between 1-5ft. And I'm big as surfers go - 6'0 @215lbs - I think what I love about it is as I got better and got my skills and confidence back - the board had room for me to grow. Once I was getting my popups consistently and trimming down the line... I started working the tail, finding my cutbacks and top turns again, etc... even took it out during head-high winter swells in Oceanside (which is like Pipeline for my skill-level) and it held up fine. I've moved on to other board since, but I won't sell it.

Here's a review of the 7'0" from CI.


Also - there's a shaper in the Carolinas I follow on IG - Tim Jump - has great style and has some fun looking mid-length cruisers.


Good Luck!
Dope this is exactly the story I want to hear. Cheers!
 

DJR

Well-Known Member
Feb 1, 2018
888
1,036
Carolina Beach NC
Hey so my friend basically donated it to me for nothing. I don't know the actual model but it's a Driftwood 9-6 by some other huge dims. I can measure later if interested. The things like 60 pounds, and I don't even have a proper fin for it, it's got a FCS dolphin 8.0 in it right now. Been also thinking about getting a more suitable fin that would make me like riding it more.
Where do you live? Where do you go?
 

JTS

Active Member
Mar 24, 2005
165
116
Lots of good suggestions
I had a water hog years ago , 8’2” really liked it. Great board in a lot of conditions. I think something with that type of outline would be money
 

Nilus

Well-Known Member
Jun 30, 2008
316
509
My two cents, having experience with a lot of the boards mentioned here and also having surfed plenty on the East Coast, including in NC as recently as this past October. I'm also in your general size range -- 5'8 and 142 lbs.

A log (or even a more performance oriented longboard design) is a must have for any quiver. The days when it's small and lined up or you just want to catch lots of waves, have fun, play around with traditional moves like noseriding, it's all available to you. I wouldn't worry about design details or anything else all that much at this point. A Driftwood is actually a very nice longboard, probably shaped by Tommy Maus. I have surfed a couple of them. I would dial in fins on that and your longboard game is covered for now.

From there ...

I wouldn't necessarily equate "midlength" with an inherent higher wave count or any other specific quality. I find wave count is as much about where you surf and how you position yourself as sheer volume or length. It's also entirely possible to get substantial volume and paddling power in a smaller overall package. More on that in a second.

If I WAS getting a midlength based on what you're saying and where you're surfing, I would skip all the boutique and alternative concepts for now (hulls, for example) and opt for something straightforward and eggy with a 2+1 fin array. That gives you lots of options as a single, a tri, a single with sidebites, and even a twin potentially. I would go somewhere in the 7' range plus or minus a few inches. At a certain point, I have to ask what the difference really is between a log and an 8' "midlength" in the types of waves you'll encounter. A little more turning ability sure. But not all that much to merit a difference for an intermediate mostly going down the line, trimming, etc. All that said, I agree with the idea that the eggy designs I'm proposing (CI Mid, which I own, being the hot new example) are often better in lined up waves in chest plus surf. That doesn't mean they aren't fun in smaller waves. However ...

For North Carolina beachbreaks, shorter period waves, less than perfect conditions, etc. ... I might also consider what is available on the sub 7' part of the spectrum. Something higher volume, wider, yet relatively short is often a better all around choice. Think fish (better wave board, sure, but equally fun in less than ideal conditions), CI biscuit type shortboard (short, fat, thick, thruster), or something else along those lines. It's less rail to worry about, easier to turn (or at least work on turning), and potentially just as stable as something a foot or more longer. Meanwhile, you can up your wave count not necessarily from sitting farther outside but sitting deeper or surfing waves that aren't as user friendly for longer equipment. Maybe give the T. Rev a little more time even.

For the record, I would keep some curve in the outline. I find designs like the mini simmons to be less user friendly and less apt to progress the average person's surfing. (Made the mistake myself already.)
 
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DJR

Well-Known Member
Feb 1, 2018
888
1,036
Carolina Beach NC
NC, mostly carolina beach and wrightsville beach, though will probably be in OBX more in the future
Not mine but a good option in ILM

raleigh https://raleigh.craigslist.org/spo/d/chapel-hill-wrv-surfboard-74/7310280265.html

also 50South at Topsail and Surf City Surf shop. Both have Eavey eggs usually. Greg Eavey knows his shit round these parts. CB Surfshop has some Vernors may be of interest

in closing get rid of the Wavestorm
 
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