Lose your stoke


Well-Known Member
Oct 19, 2020
I don’t “love” surfing in the Dec/Jan timeframe just bc it is a pain in the ass to get suited up at 6 am.

But then I realize I live in freaking San Diego and I’m just being weak and I go and watch a YouTube video of some guy with icicles on his beard as he surfs wonky windswell in the Great Lakes and I get motivated again and shut my mouth.
Last edited:


Active Member
Jan 7, 2017
Sin Diego

Four weeks to greater stoke.
Week one:
No boards allowed. Fins allowed. You must body surf each day. By the end of the week you must have completed a)A shorebreak enema b)An actual down the line open face ride with "correct" arm outstretched c) A "Hey guys, don't mind me, take what ever wave you want, I'm just getting wet."

Week Two:
Boogie and/or surfmat allowed. fins allowed. You must boogie/mat/bodysurf each day. By the end of the week you must have completed a) A bumper boogie party wave with at least two friends b)A shorebreak "eye spy" c) A ridiculously late drop into a closeout death barrel.

Week Three:
Pack at least three surfcraft in your car. Fins, boogie/mat, and some surfboard- minimum. In the water every day. By the end of the week you must have completed a) A session during which you rode every craft in your car b) A session during which you traded surfcrafts with someone in the lineup at least twice c) A session at least a half mile from a parking lot.

Week Four:
All surfcraft are allowed. Surf each day. By the end of the week you must have completed a) giving a really good wave to another surfer b) A leashless surf session (be safety minded) during which you intentionally lose your board periodically in order to bodysurf to the beach. c) A conversation with an older stoked surfer, about your dad's age, regarding the good old days.

By the end of this program you will feel your stoke revitalized, your radometer will be primed, and your shaka hand will be ready to throw out some sweet surfing love!



Well-Known Member
Jun 28, 2021
The stoke is still there. The crowds just get to me more and more.

Surfing used to be quite solitary but now its the mental equivalent of travelling by public transport. Fucking apps and services providing detailed info on when and where to go...

My skills are such that I get my share of waves but damn give a man some space. I go out of my way to scout these out of the way peaks and one good ride and the surf sheeple come paddling.


Active Member
Aug 7, 2021
Distance makes the heart grow fonder.

Take a break then come back and try some new surf spot/craft. Work on a different skill in surfing, make a new goal. Shape a board, and pay for someone else to glass it.


Active Member
Apr 6, 2021
Los Angeles
I know what is being said, but I cannot relate because I simply cannot stop.

I'm nearing 60 and discovered surfing while nearing 50, maybe has something to do with it. I've been fully stoked from the beginning and keep pouring my heart into it more and more. I'd go as much as possible year round until a head first pile drive changed that routine on my 55th birthday, since then, I kind of sit out the more turbulent winter tumblers, which is sort of okay because walking across frigid sand just makes me angry anyway. The thing is it's just too much fun and it puts a smile on my face every time, always enough until the next time. There is no lull, but there will come a time when I just can't anymore. But I'll stay stoked because I'll still know that I did this and dug it from start to finish.


Well-Known Member
Sep 28, 2018
San Diego
I don’t “love” surfing in the Dec/Jan timeframe just bc it is a pain in the ass to get suited up at 6 am.

You say 6 am but you really mean in the water at 5 45 in damn 40 degree air you crazy soul you!!

I tell you what, not being able to surf due to both personal choice of avoiding rain runoff/ murked up waters and surf being blown to chit the past week or two; combined with first born due any day has really got me itching for some waves.

In the summers when at times the lack of swell or insane crowds eats at me, theres nothing like body womp sessions with some buds or late afternoon rounds of golf to re-ignite the pilot light for late summer/fall. Something about playing Torrey at sunset watching sets roll in while i search for my balls gets me itching to get back in the water.

Theres always a trip up to the mountains. Chair 14 at mammoth, backside of Northstar, granite chief at palisades (squaw). Snowboarding has always come more natural to me than surfing, and really seems to boost confidence in the water after getting back from a good trip.
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