Looking for that power boost from within...

Thomas Morra

Member
Sep 2, 2019
98
90
Rhode Island
As a fairly new but aging surfer (2.5 years @ ~50 years old), I’m still learning and hopefully growing in my surfing progression. Something I’ve found as I try to step down to smaller boards is that I am searching for paddle strength wherever I can get it. Lately I’ve discovered that although I’m physically at my limit with my shoulders, chest and arms, there is an untapped source of energy somewhere in my core to my sacrum. I was a sprinter when I was young, and the feeling is similar. Right when I need the extra boost I can feel it kinda welling up, but I haven’t been able to harness it.

I know it may just sound like hippie hogwash, so feel free to laugh & move on if so, but if you’ve experienced this and have any advice, please let me know. I think the secret may be relaxing more, but it’s always happening so fast... Thoughts?

Tom

(PS, I’m also aware that there is limitless room for improvement with my basic technique, but that’s for another discussion.)
 

shadydave

Well-Known Member
Mar 10, 2014
2,232
2,133
Ayer Ma USA
My only advice is to get the most out of your sessions. Ride the board that gives you the most confidence so you can push your limits on that board. There are plenty of guys that are much older than you that ride short boards but they most likely have been doing it a long time. Go out and have fun and ride what gives you the most enjoyment.
 

Bruce Fowler

Well-Known Member
Jul 28, 2018
1,146
1,924
California
As a fairly new but aging surfer (2.5 years @ ~50 years old), I’m still learning and hopefully growing in my surfing progression. Something I’ve found as I try to step down to smaller boards is that I am searching for paddle strength wherever I can get it. Lately I’ve discovered that although I’m physically at my limit with my shoulders, chest and arms, there is an untapped source of energy somewhere in my core to my sacrum. I was a sprinter when I was young, and the feeling is similar. Right when I need the extra boost I can feel it kinda welling up, but I haven’t been able to harness it.

I know it may just sound like hippie hogwash, so feel free to laugh & move on if so, but if you’ve experienced this and have any advice, please let me know. I think the secret may be relaxing more, but it’s always happening so fast... Thoughts?

Tom

(PS, I’m also aware that there is limitless room for improvement with my basic technique, but that’s for another discussion.)
Board choice can make a huge difference. I'm not gonna hype what I make here other than to say check them out and talk to other people. They are super user friendly go to boards that won't disappoint for your situation.

Okay, enough of that, what you're describing is "CORE STRENGTH", and surfing is extremely good for building your core strength. Many other athletes have seen and experienced this and have remarked how it helped them in their of choice of sport(s).
 

SeniorGrom

Well-Known Member
Mar 20, 2012
3,262
2,242
USA New Jersey
One of the things that’s now gone for me at 69 yrs is that arch in my back when paddling. My fault as I do almost zero training of any type. A technique to watch and learn from. Ever see guys especially on longboards do a no-stroke takeoff? You must be able to read the waves and be in the exact right position but waiting until the wave almost gets to you. Spin the board toward shore, sink the tail, climb the board with your hands on the rails, buoyancy of the tail wants to rise and float, giving the board forward momentum with no paddling! All you need then is a perfectly timed pop-up. What I’m getting at is there’s more to it than just flailing your arms like a windmill when the peak is still 50 yards out. I see that happening too.
 
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Bighouse

Well-Known Member
Feb 21, 2012
954
609
East End, Long Island
You must be able to read the waves

Work on strength while paying attention to the surf. It’s just as important if not more. Be very very observant.

also, on shorter boards you shouldn’t need to paddle more. The board gets up to speed much faster/catches the wave with less effort. Use the waves to your advantage. I can remember a day when I was so outta shape I could barely get my 5mm on. I had to wait for the wave to jack up and just kinda toss my little fish under my feet and go.
 

kpd73

Well-Known Member
May 8, 2013
2,938
2,387
USA Rhode Island
KPD, please, elaborate.

There are 2 facets to what I was speaking of and this one is simply bringing awareness to your breathing - the essence of meditation - which in timed concert with the exertion of a pop up will open up that feeling you've felt welling up-
here's the science behind it in a very brief 1:35 video

The other thing I was going to recommend is a series of kettlebell exercises- not swings - but very basic, easy, yet unconventional lifts and twists done from a medium squat position that will help strengthen and connect the sacrum and core, opening and expanding, allowing that breath to Really flow freely in.
The reason I said to call me 401-600-1806 is that I know you're local and would be more than happy to show you along with some yoga poses.

Everything I speak of and teach and Practice is all science based. It's breath, energy, vibration, frequency, and strength.
Get in touch anytime Thomas.
I'm no mystical wizard, just some dude who has spent years studying spiritual science and applying it to everyday life.

the meditation experience.jpg
 

Thomas Morra

Member
Sep 2, 2019
98
90
Rhode Island
There are 2 facets to what I was speaking of and this one is simply bringing awareness to your breathing - the essence of meditation - which in timed concert with the exertion of a pop up will open up that feeling you've felt welling up-
here's the science behind it in a very brief 1:35 video

The other thing I was going to recommend is a series of kettlebell exercises- not swings - but very basic, easy, yet unconventional lifts and twists done from a medium squat position that will help strengthen and connect the sacrum and core, opening and expanding, allowing that breath to Really flow freely in.
The reason I said to call me 401-600-1806 is that I know you're local and would be more than happy to show you along with some yoga poses.

Everything I speak of and teach and Practice is all science based. It's breath, energy, vibration, frequency, and strength.
Get in touch anytime Thomas.
I'm no mystical wizard, just some dude who has spent years studying spiritual science and applying it to everyday life.

View attachment 16216

THAT’S what I’m talking about! Channeling the breath (perhaps?) to access that potential energy that I’m feeling. When you are lying prone, you can’t easily use the rest of your frame/musculature to access it. I was also asking if this sounded familiar to anyone else...

I’m interested to hear what your take on this is, especially from the breathing perspective. I am actually a 200hr certified yoga instructor, and my teacher is a total anatomy nerd, so we had a great deal of that in our training. I really think you’re on to something with the diaphragm/bandha activation being the key. I’d love to talk in person at some point, hopefully during a session. I’ll send a text with contact info and we can keep in touch.

Tom
 
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dr flavors

Well-Known Member
Jul 21, 2019
225
352
ca
all the yoga, core work and cheater boards in the world are not going to make a difference if you don't put yourself in the right spot. watch the best surfers at your local. time after time you'll see seemingly effortless take offs with no drama. why? because they already did the work before the wave even got to them. by being cognizant of the patterns at given moment and paddling early they are putting themselves in the best position to succeed.

lots of adult learners bunker off the "line-up", acting like sheep in the water (sorry, but its true), and they never learn to read what the ocean is doing on their own. find yourself an empty peak down the beach and put the time in. its a solitary pursuit and you've got to figure it out for yourself
 
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