Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Surfing' started by Roach, Oct 26, 2011.
8’4 McVee. I like it.
7', 1/2" - I wasn't too far off. How long was your board?
Missing the warm weather surf trips right about now...
Already dreaming of fall barrels on the outer Banks
This thing kills ....7.10.
Copy of torren martyn
MOTE massive board...
Im loving midlengths..
Rockview...santa cruz..then sewers
Damn John....that's a thing of beauty. Congrats.
Tell us more
The board..is one that torren martyn.(.youtube..vimeo..him.Dear Vinta..etc
And simon jones/MOTE(morning of the earth surfboards)..shaper..put together
Called The massive( and the fiji..shorter version..sub 7')...this 7.10 x 23 x 3.25
Channels..micro wings...twin..rasta keels( with option for TA twins)...
Beaked nose..og style..ha
It handles good size steep waves...easily..
Slippery...but not too loose..
Locks in when cover is coming..but not tracky like a keel fish.....wild thing..so a
Bro and i decided to share a wave do..cross overs..etc..and
When i went to the top ..to let him go by..
I thought..ahh crap..im going over the back of the wave..as i was going slightly sideways..i put more pressure on back side rail..
And next thing i know...im doing a floater....and then land back in front .
My bro..stalled as soon as he saw
What was happening.....we were laughing the rest of the wave..
Im.like..not planned....i haven't done a good floater in years..ha.
Last wave i caught from sewers all the way to the stairs at 30th..jumped off in 1' of water on the sand....stoked outta my gourd...the sand has come back..usually its gone...now i know why the waves had such a nice shape even with bump..in the water
..midlength madness luck continues
Next up my fowler 8.2 V8 but with stage 6 center..4 small sides..bruces suggestion..since its a 4+1..
Even though i love just the
9.75" 4A..im.open minded
And also the 7.9 new vmachine..
Needs some love
Since i love it as a tri set up...i'm gonna revist quad.setups...controllers..speed dialers..etc..since it is a 5fin..and
See what i see..
Like i said...my midlength quiver is solid..now
So that's mostly why ..ill probably sell the 7.10 vbowls. of course i could get a great kelpless day at the lane..and then all bets are off ha..
Plus...im looking at getting couchs 6.9 snubnose fowler mini max..and
I was thinking of a glider later
With bruce also..
Whew..i gotta chill..post surf coke
In the bottle real sugar.&.im.flying..ha
Wrap up..i feel pretty lucky...
Since car accident ..then acl and rotator cuff surgeries...2014-2018.. was a weird.inconsistant time for me...in jax bch
.and then here..rehabbing mega..
But ive cleaned my eating..fine tuned my training..
And ive lost almost 40 lbs....
Using bodylastic resistance bands..heavy duty quality stuff..and
Had been dabbling in The Foundation body work.but now daily....got the new book
Fit to Form..new stuff .went to a few
Group classes for pointers...along with
Cardio on my spinner bike..
for inflammation..stiffness.. hemp cbd drops...cream....tropiscin cream from whole foods.
.ok.....and some "flower"..once .in a "green moon"..
And voila' this 60yr old feels 20yrs younger....my hair is long..so i
Tease my wife.. about dreads..ha
"Think young..feel young"?
I dunno..i'm pretty stoked
And it lasts longer now..the feeling...
Even when i get tired teach all these college classes.mon-thurs.....i remember the session...and im good.
Oops..wow...that was pretty wordy.
Ok nap time...
Then make dinner with the girls..
Great write up dude, tell me more about the hemp!!
OK, now theres a ride report to be proud of. How about those keels in there, Cuda wondered if they'd be too tracky. Doesn't sound like it, and to watch Torren ride it, it doesnt look too stiff, of course he's drawing long mega-stylish lines on long overhead point waves. As for me I am lovestruck by the plan shape and channels, happily stuck in the 8 ft range with no plans to move up or down and wondering what the SD guys might do with the concept.