Just Board Pics

Discussion in 'Surfing' started by Roach, Oct 26, 2011.

  1. sightpoint

    sightpoint Active Member

    829
    212
    Jan 28, 2014
    2' and onshore
    E919E485-4E6A-4EF5-9E53-A87CB07382C0.jpeg 013E462D-AC17-4B3C-AC62-D5EC56C6831B.jpeg
    8’4 McVee. I like it.
     
    sonOsea, Mizrachi, Roadmaster and 8 others like this.
  2. Driftwood

    Driftwood Well-Known Member

    949
    399
    Dec 2, 2014
    France
    7', 1/2" - I wasn't too far off. How long was your board?
     
  3. ParSurf

    ParSurf Active Member

    52
    126
    Nov 16, 2018
    Milwaukee Oregon
    Missing the warm weather surf trips right about now... A55A755D-A443-4008-AE31-B5ADE1CD49C2.jpeg
     
    longhairhippie likes this.
  4. NCJohn

    NCJohn Active Member

    268
    208
    Oct 27, 2015
    Already dreaming of fall barrels on the outer Banks IMG_20190222_084512.jpg
     
    Last edited: Feb 24, 2019
  5. DanSan

    DanSan Well-Known Member

    1,452
    627
    Jun 7, 2012
    USA California
    IMG_79311.jpg c IMG_79271.jpg

    This thing kills ....7.10.
    Copy of torren martyn
    MOTE massive board...
    Im loving midlengths..
    Rockview...santa cruz..then sewers
    Awesome
     
  6. FirstPointEric

    FirstPointEric Well-Known Member

  7. bonzer

    bonzer Active Member

    259
    84
    Mar 11, 2014
    USA New Jersey
    Tell us more
     
    DanSan likes this.
  8. DanSan

    DanSan Well-Known Member

    1,452
    627
    Jun 7, 2012
    USA California
    Qq
    Ok..
    The board..is one that torren martyn.(.youtube..vimeo..him.Dear Vinta..etc
    And simon jones/MOTE(morning of the earth surfboards)..shaper..put together
    Called The massive( and the fiji..shorter version..sub 7')...this 7.10 x 23 x 3.25
    Channels..micro wings...twin..rasta keels( with option for TA twins)...
    Beaked nose..og style..ha
    It handles good size steep waves...easily..
    Slippery...but not too loose..
    Locks in when cover is coming..but not tracky like a keel fish.....wild thing..so a
    Bro and i decided to share a wave do..cross overs..etc..and
    When i went to the top ..to let him go by..
    I thought..ahh crap..im going over the back of the wave..as i was going slightly sideways..i put more pressure on back side rail..
    And next thing i know...im doing a floater....and then land back in front .
    My bro..stalled as soon as he saw
    What was happening.....we were laughing the rest of the wave..
    Im.like..not planned....i haven't done a good floater in years..ha.
    Last wave i caught from sewers all the way to the stairs at 30th..jumped off in 1' of water on the sand....stoked outta my gourd...the sand has come back..usually its gone...now i know why the waves had such a nice shape even with bump..in the water
    And
    ..midlength madness luck continues
    Next up my fowler 8.2 V8 but with stage 6 center..4 small sides..bruces suggestion..since its a 4+1..
    Even though i love just the
    9.75" 4A..im.open minded
    And also the 7.9 new vmachine..
    Needs some love
    Since i love it as a tri set up...i'm gonna revist quad.setups...controllers..speed dialers..etc..since it is a 5fin..and
    See what i see..
    Like i said...my midlength quiver is solid..now
    So that's mostly why ..ill probably sell the 7.10 vbowls. of course i could get a great kelpless day at the lane..and then all bets are off ha..
    Plus...im looking at getting couchs 6.9 snubnose fowler mini max..and
    I was thinking of a glider later
    With bruce also..
    Whew..i gotta chill..post surf coke
    In the bottle real sugar.&.im.flying..ha

    Wrap up..i feel pretty lucky...
    Since car accident ..then acl and rotator cuff surgeries...2014-2018.. was a weird.inconsistant time for me...in jax bch
    .and then here..rehabbing mega..
    But ive cleaned my eating..fine tuned my training..
    And ive lost almost 40 lbs....
    Using bodylastic resistance bands..heavy duty quality stuff..and
    Had been dabbling in The Foundation body work.but now daily....got the new book
    Fit to Form..new stuff .went to a few
    Group classes for pointers...along with
    Cardio on my spinner bike..
    And
    for inflammation..stiffness.. hemp cbd drops...cream....tropiscin cream from whole foods.
    .ok.....and some "flower"..once .in a "green moon"..
    And voila' this 60yr old feels 20yrs younger....my hair is long..so i
    Tease my wife.. about dreads..ha
    So maybe
    "Think young..feel young"?
    I dunno..i'm pretty stoked
    And it lasts longer now..the feeling...
    Even when i get tired teach all these college classes.mon-thurs.....i remember the session...and im good.
    Oops..wow...that was pretty wordy.
    Ok nap time...
    Then make dinner with the girls..
     
  9. davey

    davey Active Member

    455
    131
    Jun 9, 2007
    Australia
    Great write up dude, tell me more about the hemp!!
     
    DanSan likes this.
  10. bonzer

    bonzer Active Member

    259
    84
    Mar 11, 2014
    USA New Jersey
    OK, now theres a ride report to be proud of. How about those keels in there, Cuda wondered if they'd be too tracky. Doesn't sound like it, and to watch Torren ride it, it doesnt look too stiff, of course he's drawing long mega-stylish lines on long overhead point waves. As for me I am lovestruck by the plan shape and channels, happily stuck in the 8 ft range with no plans to move up or down and wondering what the SD guys might do with the concept.
     
    DanSan likes this.

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