I overcame my mid-length crisis today.

Discussion in 'Surfing' started by Patrick Riley, Sep 18, 2019.

  1. michael

    michael Well-Known Member

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    Apr 19, 2017
    NJ
    Diving into middies / hulls last year has since made me very happy. You nailed it with the bit about not having to think about nose riding or any other maneuvers. Feeling the flow and just surfing the wave. Enjoying the rabbit hole.
     
    Chilly Willy, DJR and Patrick Riley like this.
  2. Patrick Riley

    Patrick Riley Active Member

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    May 15, 2018
    Jacksonville Beach
    The rabbit hole is a good way to put it. I already see the possibilities.

    I think i was just always of the mind set that if it's small, I longboard, if it's got juice I'll pull out a thruster or other shortboard, If it's got some juice and clean that's really when I enjoy my twin keel. I've been fascinated with the thought of more flow and harnessing the pocket more for a while.

    Talking to a guy in the lineup who i have started to become close with was always a die hard ripping short-order, kind of aggro (seen him go off on more than a few people), covered in tattoos. I always just steered clear of him until he paddled over on a log and complimented me and said he's always enjoyed watching me surf and now that he's trying traditional long boarding it's opening up all kinds of thoughts and ideas for him and has such a respect for it.
     
    Makawaosurfer93 and Basenji703 like this.
  3. DanSan

    DanSan Well-Known Member

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    USA California
    HxIRiEQ (1).jpg

    Mid length...channels
    Twin keels..torren martyn's board
    Shaped by simon jones/MOTE surfboards..7.10
    I have..one coming in 1.5 weeks ...
    Mid length..mid life...all right!!
    FB_IMG_1568207722946.jpg screen-shot-2018-12-03-at-4-48-07-pm.png
     
    Knots, Artz, Patrick Riley and 3 others like this.
  4. Mango Bill

    Mango Bill Well-Known Member

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    USA California
    7’10” to 8’8” .......need throw all on garage floor and take a photo,welcome to the club as Vet said
    Mango
     
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  5. jory

    jory Active Member

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    United Kingdom
    Must admit this 7'10 has been the board i've ridden most over the last year ( apart from a log when its tiny)

    So much fun to draw big turns, competes with the progressive longboard crew at the local for waves and super fast to high line trim.

    Honourable mention to my 6'10 howard special mini though ( which given how small I am is prob like a mid 7' one for most) Hands down my fave board in my quiver, always makes me smile to surf. So smooth to swoop out into the flats and drive around a shoulder plus face. Doesn't pump for speed well which means the days its right for are numbered in our sectiony beach break. Very tempting to get one shaped the same but with concave in the vee panels!
     

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    DJR, Patrick Riley and DanSan like this.
  6. DanSan

    DanSan Well-Known Member

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    Jun 7, 2012
    USA California
    Please do...im psyched to see this!
     
    Patrick Riley likes this.
  7. Gallery

    Gallery Member

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    Jul 3, 2018
    New Jersey
    Did you order direct from Larry or through a shop?
     
  8. Patrick Riley

    Patrick Riley Active Member

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    May 15, 2018
    Jacksonville Beach
    I'm a constant craigslist hunter - as are many. Popped up with "ridden twice." Contacted the guy and we had a nice convo. I was deciding between the honey badger, C-Bucket. The price sold me on this, Got it for $550. Was going to amtrak for $105 but then put an instagram blast of "Anyone happen to be flying from LAX to Jax in near future" Just happened to have a friend out for a wedding and picking up a couple boards from DHD. He was staying 5 mins from board owner. It worked out except with his wife's luggage and his boards, I got hit with $150 board charge because he was over the limit. Made it here in one piece.

    $700 pretty much brand new and no wait seemed like a good deal, 550 was much better but oh well.
     
    Gallery likes this.
  9. Patrick Riley

    Patrick Riley Active Member

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    May 15, 2018
    Jacksonville Beach
    Can't wait to see it. I've really been digging watching Torren's surfing. I will end up with something similar down the road. I might have Tony at COS or Dunlop shape me something similar.
     
    DanSan likes this.
  10. DanSan

    DanSan Well-Known Member

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    Jun 7, 2012
    USA California
    Honestly....i know both..and respect them..

    But i would go direct..contact kirk at foam & function..he works with simon..

    I had dave vernor...then ward coffey try and copy...not the same..
    I knew sonething was missing..

    Funny i see everyone copying him..the board source has a macullum copy..but no channels..even lovelaces f/m new model...ha

    Anyway..just my 2 cents..for what is worth..ha
     
    Patrick Riley likes this.

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