I overcame my mid-length crisis today.

Discussion in 'Surfing' started by Patrick Riley, Sep 18, 2019.

  1. Patrick Riley

    Patrick Riley Active Member

    110
    155
    May 15, 2018
    Jacksonville Beach
    I posted this on my IG @prizzle_78 but I figured it was worth a share here.

    I think this 7’2 Mabile Honey Badger may have just changed surfing for me; If not a full change — at the very least a new door cracked open.

    IMG_9299.jpg


    For the longest time I’ve ridden longboards, shortboards, fish, never fearing the options to explore, sans one - the mid-length. I think it was mostly pride and the self inflicted thought, bias, and rational that “mid-length” was nothing more than a hip way of labeling the dreaded fun-shape for mass underground-surf-style enthusiasts and their syndicated consumption. I easily veered around this brain rumor with a compulsive, cross-coast, craigslist purchase by justifying the need for an upcoming trip to El Sal, and something i could travel w/ for the softer point days and such.


    After watching Tan Madonna last night and the way Alex Knost flowed on that bonzer I sold myself on paddling it out today no matter what conditions presented in the morning. The head to occasional plus Humberto glass mounds rolling through were the perfect starting point. It felt so new to surf on something I had no ambitions of taking vertical off the lip, nose riding, or anything else that comes from true desires or self perceived pressures to push ourselves and each other as a water miscible tribe. I let go, I let the wave tell me where to go and when to turn (also when to eat shit to the tune of dozens or your water friends gasps, oh shit’s-fuuuucks and damns.)


    It really just felt good to surf for the pure feeling of fun and flow. I know this isn’t an original concept but it’s one I’m sure we all forget from time to time, and need to be reminded of. I was reading too deep into my own perception of something without ever giving it a try. As surfers we generally view ourselves as the open minded dreamers, but we all hold back. If we can read our true wants and what surfing really should feel like rather than look like, we can begin again, fresh, each new day.

    I think a quote from one of contemporary literature’s wisest writers stated it best when he wrote:


    "If you read with your eyes shut
    you’re likely to find
    that the place where you're going
    is far, far behind."


    -Dr. Seuss
    I Can Read with My Eyes Shut

    I think I can safely say my “mid-length crisis” has come to an end. Open every damn door.

    Humberto 091819.jpg
    Humberto 091819 mabile.jpg
    Humberto 091819 mabile 3.jpg
    Humberto 091819 mabile 4.jpg
     
  2. SdSurferguy

    SdSurferguy Well-Known Member

    1,420
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    Oct 18, 2006
    USA
    Andrew Johnson and DanSan like this.
  3. DanSan

    DanSan Well-Known Member

    1,437
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    Jun 7, 2012
    USA California
    Once you go mid...
    You' ll never...go..back..

    I'm there..and it's rad..
     
  4. Patrick Riley

    Patrick Riley Active Member

    110
    155
    May 15, 2018
    Jacksonville Beach
    I saw it. I've felt this way long before that came out but it was pretty funny.
     
  5. Justino

    Justino Member

    43
    9
    Nov 15, 2016
    Big difference between a mid-length and a funshape. Flat is where it's at.
     
  6. strez

    strez Active Member

    917
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    Mar 23, 2012
    Hamilton, Massachusetts
    Thanks for sharing. I love mid-lengths and to me the perfect quiver is a fish, mid-length and a log.

    Love what you surf, surf what you love.
     
    deadkipper, DanSan and DJR like this.
  7. SeniorGrom

    SeniorGrom Well-Known Member

    2,727
    1,327
    Mar 20, 2012
    USA New Jersey
    Correct me if I’m wrong......funshapes are mid length thrusters. Those will only generate speed by pumping with an exact rear foot placement. Mid length boards with other fin configurations combined with bottom contours can generate speed without butt wiggling. The flow experienced is not one of rip/shread/tear, but riding waves in and around the power source.
     
  8. Veterano

    Veterano Well-Known Member

    1,615
    1,229
    Aug 29, 2013
    The Mid-Life is the life for me!
     
    Chilly Willy, JTS, DanSan and 4 others like this.
  9. Bighouse

    Bighouse Active Member

    646
    217
    Feb 21, 2012
    East End, Long Island
    I agree with all of the above and will add that it takes a decent surfer to surf a mid length well. I had this same feeling/crisis about 7 years ago. More a longing interest but you get the point. Made surfing more fun and changed the way I surfed longer and shorter boards. I also have a Honey Badger in my quiver. Enjoy!
     

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