How was your surf today?....share your stoke!

mightyrime

Well-Known Member
Nov 10, 2020
507
759
oceanside ca
I did a double session yesterday 10a-11:30a and 4:30p-6p.. and i had a first.....

I actually had time to get a cold beer with a friend after the PM session.

Usually between work and 2 kids i have short sessions and rush home.

This time i had a full day hall pass.

I went to the bar in Oceanside harbor still wet after 2 good sessions and had a cold pint of some craft brew pilsner.... so amazingly refreshing

Now how do i find time to do this every session....
 

jory

Well-Known Member
Dec 25, 2005
1,025
1,570
United Kingdom
Slim pickings for us this week but swell is arriving tomorrow thankfully......

Had friends to stay so checked out some hot rod beach racing in the gloom yesterday and scored some almost rideable windswell for their kids today.....

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DJR

Well-Known Member
Feb 1, 2018
1,555
2,411
Carolina Beach NC

jory

Well-Known Member
Dec 25, 2005
1,025
1,570
United Kingdom
It’s been low key pumping all week but really really windy. Definitely feels like summer has gone already.

Light winds, good groundswell and sunshine yesterday then caught the excellent Mercy Union supporting Dave Hause last night. They’re from New Jersey and are great live if you east coasters get the chance.

Windy leftovers this morning with no need for heart in the mouth duck diving......

Recently (last pic isn’t mine)


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Chilly Willy

Well-Known Member
Feb 15, 2004
2,758
3,622
USA New Jersey
I was able to squeeze in a half hour lunch break session on a boogie today. I had done it once before many years ago, so I was excited about the prospect about a repeat of that. My first wave set the scene: straight into the tube and came out through the curtain. Almost all of the dozen or so waves I got in my brief scramble included a barrel -- some good ones, some closeouts. I jogged back to my car and landed back in my desk chair right on time. Skin feels taut and salty. Hair is a little mussed up, legs are kind of sore. Totally worth it.

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