How was your surf today?....share your stoke!

Bummer Dude

Well-Known Member
Jul 8, 2019
666
1,084
Oak View
Hope my socal brothers scored today! Got out today to a little known point around here. A little before the swell arrived, when I paddled out waves were just over waist high, but clean and pealing through to the beach. Had it to myself the first 15 minutes, then the population doubled, to two. Not to worry because the swell picked up, building to head high by the time I had to head back to work. Wave was working. Sun was out, and me and this stranger traded waves for an hour with not a word said between us. Last wave wedged up for a pitchy start, fun racy section, big turn off the tail in the bowl, then nother little racy section with a head dip, then crouch down and cruise into the sand. Hard to describe how good it all felt and how bad I needed it today with stress at work and home. Maybe I can sneak in another tomorrow. ;)

Went back yesterday. Crowd had swelled to 10. Swell had swelled too. Head high plus, dreamy conditions. Had the new to me 7'2" liddle. All things aligned for an epic session. Probably best since 2020 Baja trip. As my friend said, "I thought it would be good, didn't think it would be this good"
 

mightyrime

Well-Known Member
Nov 10, 2020
454
666
oceanside ca
Sometimes you win sometimes you don't.

Got my COVID booster Tuesday and was too sick to get out and surf yesterday.

Still did not feel great this AM but i wanted to get the tail end of the swell.

Chose the wrong spot. Surf was solid head high + sets but mostly walled up.

Was the game of cheat towards the beach to catch the lully rolling set that did not want to break on the outside... then get caught on the inside when the big outside set comes ( mostly walled)... or vice versa and sit on the outside and everything rolls by.

Too much west swell, a bit too much tide, weird backwash lead to like 4 good rides over an hour...

Still fun and still stoked and i did get one right that was head high and fast and had good shape so not a total bust.

got to have the mediocre sessions to make the good ones all the better
 

Dadanman14

Active Member
Oct 16, 2020
142
235
Carlsbad, CA
Sometimes you win sometimes you don't.

Got my COVID booster Tuesday and was too sick to get out and surf yesterday.

Still did not feel great this AM but i wanted to get the tail end of the swell.

Chose the wrong spot. Surf was solid head high + sets but mostly walled up.

Was the game of cheat towards the beach to catch the lully rolling set that did not want to break on the outside... then get caught on the inside when the big outside set comes ( mostly walled)... or vice versa and sit on the outside and everything rolls by.

Too much west swell, a bit too much tide, weird backwash lead to like 4 good rides over an hour...

Still fun and still stoked and i did get one right that was head high and fast and had good shape so not a total bust.

got to have the mediocre sessions to make the good ones all the better
This makes me feel better. Similar experience. Daughters daycare shut down due to Covid so couldn’t get out yesterday. Did a dawn patrol session this morning but similar conditions you described. Stoked to hear everyone else scored yesterday. Everyone in the lineup today was still talking about yesterday lol
 

dingdong

Well-Known Member
Jan 14, 2013
1,669
995
USA California
second session of the new year last Sunday and got tagged by stingray! ouch! still a little ache and swelling from the toxin...waiting for the necrosis to appear
 




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