Hope my socal brothers scored today! Got out today to a little known point around here. A little before the swell arrived, when I paddled out waves were just over waist high, but clean and pealing through to the beach. Had it to myself the first 15 minutes, then the population doubled, to two. Not to worry because the swell picked up, building to head high by the time I had to head back to work. Wave was working. Sun was out, and me and this stranger traded waves for an hour with not a word said between us. Last wave wedged up for a pitchy start, fun racy section, big turn off the tail in the bowl, then nother little racy section with a head dip, then crouch down and cruise into the sand. Hard to describe how good it all felt and how bad I needed it today with stress at work and home. Maybe I can sneak in another tomorrow.