How was your surf today?....share your stoke!

Driftwood

Well-Known Member
Dec 2, 2014
1,418
1,148
France
Two great days in a row.

Yesterday the main report was calling it small and sideshore, tried another area on a hunch and had super clean waist to head-high lefts with a straight offshore. Only six guys out on one of my favorite sandbars since vitually everyone just follows the reports these days.

This morning it was supposed to be shoulder to head with a light offshore. A friend told me about a different sandbar, so... hike through the woods and over the dune. Dead glass, well overhead sets, and... six guys out again. Two of them were friends, great ambiance and great, long righthanders. A few were carvy, most were just gun it and go, all the way to the beach.

Tide got a bit high at the end and the backwash made it a bit tricky, but what a great session.

My shoulder is raw with Efuldix treating my skin, but a rashguard and some gel seemed to help. Way worth the discomfort during the long paddles back out!

Life is good.
 

Doggyfizzle

Active Member
Nov 23, 2020
108
147
Ventura
Finally managed to time the tides right at C Street this morning - definitely was cleaner today than the previous two days - almost no texture. Took my Avocet out and lost count of how many nice shoulder-high waves I caught between the pipes. Ended up chatting with an old dude who I thought was riding a longer, fatter gun, but on closer inspection was a fin-less beast he called a "Hot Curl." Was badass watching him slide this board into the bigger set waves wayyyyy early. First time I've ever seen a 10'+ board like that with a really narrow tail and really pronounced panel V. All in all an excellent morning.
 

jory

Well-Known Member
Dec 25, 2005
756
770
United Kingdom
So after a flat spell that seemed like an age we’ve had a little run of clean swell ranging from glassy knee high on Sunday to around head high mid week and back down to a clean chest high this evening.

Monday dawn patrol might be my best logging session of the summer. Super glassy and long period, the main bank at my local was doing its best point break impression and it genuinely felt like California on a June gloom morning. Rode the modern “involvement” log I’ve posted before and had some really fun waves. There was such a perfect taper it was almost embarrassingly easy to perch toes over. Even better, there were only 6 of us for an hour, all locals that know each other well, the forecast having underestimated the size of the swell. No-one dropped in and no-one got in the way, a rare pleasure these days.

The forecast swell arrived and the crowds drove down. Spent three sessions on this borrowed 7’4 Bing Alpha pin. Lovely board, needs a bit of face and go from the wave to excel but really fun swoops.

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The wind swung today and dictated a move to our sheltered spot for wedgey chest high peaks ripe for the taking by those with some paddle fitness and a trained eye. Perfect for this magic 6’10 twin egg. Bang on trend and rapidly becoming on of my favourite boards. Fast, loose, drivey and fun.........

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Fingers crossed the wind holds off early tomorrow.......
 

longhairhippie

Active Member
Mar 31, 2011
324
66
USA
couple clean peaks at Bolsa...fell allot like usual but caught a couple runners for some stoke...water was cold but refreshing... nothing beats the bite of that nice cold CA winter water
I surfed bolsa too. Couple head high sets but I wasn't in the right spot for any of them. I didn't have any spectacular waves but there were some gems to be had. Water was warmer than I expected. I didn't need the 4/3 but my 3/2 is so full of holes it's basically the same protection as a spring suit.
 

Zzz

Well-Known Member
Aug 15, 2017
436
460
CA
Motivated to get out early and got some decent waves in the northeast. The photo is from after I surfed when I checked another spot thinking I might surf twice but in the end didn’t paddle back out. Beautiful day to surf.
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