Boat ride to spot in the dark to catch Larry leftovers. Jumping off boat I paddled right into a set that was throaty and sucking sand. Kicked out pretty stoked when all of a sudden I got thumped in the chest. Then 2 more times. Was wild. Then a huge school of big jumping mullets showered all around me in the impact zone. I needed a change of shorts - code brown. All good. Fun days continue here in NC
wow dude that is hard core. Praise to you for working in the hospitals right now.Started a job contract at an ER in the central valley this week. Dealing with covid crisis conditions with the highest number of sick, dying and dead people I've ever seen in a hospital, coupled with unsafe levels of smokey air and 105+ degree heat. Got in the water back home this morning for a short session on the glider, I don't know if cool ocean water has ever felt as good in my life.