How was your surf today?....share your stoke!

Lackosense

Well-Known Member
Apr 25, 2017
1,441
1,528
Rockaway, NY
I’m pissed, beautiful sunny day, surf is firing, and I’m sitting here with 10 stitches in my head. Well at least I’m picking up a new board today, and no it’s not a Thundercat Chinese pop out (although I do love the one I surf). Lol
Been there done that... you become braver to dive head first into the most critical part of the wave. Perhaps the result of slight brain damage lol. Staples were cool, i was streaming in 5G for a while.
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Lackosense

Well-Known Member
Apr 25, 2017
1,441
1,528
Rockaway, NY

Driftwood

Well-Known Member
Dec 2, 2014
1,436
1,175
France
Just a killer little session this morning after weeks of wind and work conflicts.

Up at 5:30 for some reason, hit the beach to unexpectedly glassy conditions. Main peak was already getting crowded but there was a nice little left-right a bit down the way. One guy paddled out and I actually went up thinking to apologize - I hate being the one that spoils someone's little slice a paradise. Guy was super cool, glad to have someone to trade waves with, and it just set things off right.

Maybe an hour and a half, tons of fun waves, and the slight offshore that came up didn't do any harm. Got home just as my kids were making brunch.

Life is good.
 

Driftwood

Well-Known Member
Dec 2, 2014
1,436
1,175
France
Had to go to dermatologist today. Removed a squamous cell growth on my head and put in 10 stitches. Go twice next week for excisions to remove some from arms which wil require more stitches, then finally the next week to remove one from hand, more stitches.
So, no water for me for awhile. Probably say screw it though and surf a little with the stitches still in.
Damn, I feel your pain.

Go in on Tuesday for PDT for squamous on my ear and forehead, then again next Monday. Then Sept 7th for surgery for basels on my chest and shoulder that have proved to be, shall we say, resilliant.

Take care of yourself!
 




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