How was your surf today?....share your stoke!

Driftwood

Well-Known Member
Dec 2, 2014
1,337
977
France
Small but offshore and perfectly lined up little peelers. Great day to surf the balsa pig - what a blast in these conditions!

With France on a 10km radius lockdown, crowds were non-existant. I surfed a little peak that concentrated the swell, rights and lefts, mostly by myself for two hours and then with two other random people who showed up.

Started out like below, and then with the tide shift the wind died.

Life is good.

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mightyrime

Member
Nov 10, 2020
77
81
oceanside ca
bought a new board 8'3" DXTR Super model. First time riding a mid length single fin with a soft rail tail. The board has a really foiled roughly 50/50 rail, slight V running the entire bottom... 3' - 4' at oceanside harbor.

Very different feel... so smooth, gliding and just cruisy, compared to my other mids with a more downturned hard rail. Got maybe 6 fun rides in the hour i had before work.

good time!
 

Justino

Active Member
Nov 15, 2016
209
102
Love my DXTR Darkhorse model. Had a great session on it Monday. His boards are great. Had a surprisingly fun time at Doho yesterday with my middle son yesterday. Little peelers when the tide dropped and manageable crowd.
 

BigTurbo68

Member
Jul 13, 2020
22
37
LA
Had a great week of surf all over Southern California and finished up today with a surprisingly fun session at a usually crummy South Bay spot. No crowd except a group of friends. Been very stoked on my 7’10 long fish. I had no idea what to expect from this shape but it’s been killer in all kinds of conditions and forced me to surf a little differently.
 

Zufeldt

New Member
Apr 6, 2021
15
19
Los Angeles
Nice, Turbo, when an offbeat spot is more fun than expected.

Got a well timed takeoff on a nice wave but had to veer off course to avert a teen paddling out. Lost the ride but not the joy.

The Moral: Incidents are no fun.

Had to go, but it was fun while it lasted.
 

Tenfooter

Well-Known Member
Nov 12, 2014
1,023
802
USA Rhode Island
Hull Bay in St Thomas is delivering the hoods
Solid head high sets with the classic out of nowhere bombs !!
Thanks again a million times to Johnny Borbone to show me this place
 

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Chilly Willy

Well-Known Member
Feb 15, 2004
2,319
2,250
USA New Jersey
Yesterday was the day, but too much to do. Nice leftovers this morning. The swell is mostly direct E with a shade of north to it, which generally isn't great but I found a good little sandbar that was transforming those waves that would otherwise be lefts into right. I got a bunch to myself until one other guy paddled out -- I was enjoying my solo session but it turned out to be pretty nice company. Made me think that one of the cool things about surfing is how you can surf with a total stranger, shoot the breeze a bit, hoot each other on, and wave to each other when one of you leaves. Not too many other activities that are like that.

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