How was your surf today?....share your stoke!

Nov 29, 2020
33
30
Los Angeles
crazy week so I’m a little late to share but the fiancée and I were out at our closest point break on Sunday. Overcrowded. Lots of drop ins that I had to navigate, you know the fun surf slalom course.

However, one lucky surfer was able to connect a ride right off the point, ALL THE WAY to the inside cove. He was hooting and hollering AND nobody dropped in on him. Everybody was sharing his stoke. I’ve never seen somebody so happy after a ride. It was wonderful.

I had a pretty lame session but sometimes it’s not just about your own stoke. It’s about sharing the stoke with a fellow comrade, who got the ride of their life.
 

dsquare

Well-Known Member
May 16, 2013
512
440
USA Hawaii
Freaking cold this morning! 63 degrees (F). A little hint of off-shore north wind (cold air coming down from the top of Kauai explains the chill). I go to my usual spot and the parking lot is empty. Walk out to check it out and it looks ok but there is barely enough light to tell. Nobody on the beach or paddling out. I go back, gear up and paddle out. Enough light by this point. Waves and surface glass up as the waves pick up. Miss a right and paddle to the left a little deeper. Take off on a long left- a really clean, windless, mostly glassy long left. Expect to see a few regulars paddling out- nothing. Catch another one, then another, still nobody, but its waist to chest high. Hook into a peaky left and get gifted with a little bowl that picks up near the end. Carve around the top. Look to the beach- nothing. Catch a few more- I'm fading right then pulling around left nearly every wave and just cruising, nothing that would look good on a magazine cover but... it was fun. After an hour another regular paddles out and watches me take off on the biggest wave of the morning, my fin skipped out on the bottom turn, I stepped back too far on the drop and over did it. He can't believe I'm by myself, at one of the busiest waves on the island. I manage another overhead set wave and am bummed it closes out- the only close out I had. I get another waist to chest high left and then paddle out to catch a right in. 90 minutes total from truck to beach to truck again. Basically cloudless and a beautiful sunrise. This Covid thing is terrible- don't come here.
 

Tlri

Well-Known Member
Oct 30, 2017
444
501
Rhode island
There are worse ways to start a morning.
just me and 1 friend out for sunrise thigh high rollers on the gliders.
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Salinity

Well-Known Member
May 11, 2016
802
553
USA Rhode Island
Caught my last wave for quite a while today (shoulder surgery on Friday). 3rd wave of the session was a gift of a left that I was able to connect all the way to the beach when most were dying in the higher tide deep spot between the sandbars (@Tlri -I was sitting inside and to the left of you shortly after sunrise). Normally I would have have paddled right back out, but I thought better of it this time - I wanted the memory of that wave burned into my consciousness as deep as possible.

keep the stoke guys and gals!
 
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Tlri

Well-Known Member
Oct 30, 2017
444
501
Rhode island
Thought I saw your car there.
keep that wave in the memory bank as motivation to get back out.
Best of luck Friday.
rehab, rehab, rehab.
 

walkingtheplank

Well-Known Member
Aug 2, 2004
580
279
wherever i am
three weeks w/no clean surf in CFL until today - went to Hightower & paddled out in 65 degree water w/air temp exactly the same. wore my 2mm for the first time in several yrs, as there was a slight chill on the W wind & in the ocean. made the mistake of not eating lunch before my session, & paid the price: low energy, mushy waves @ a slow reef break & general noodle arm rustiness cost me many waves i tried paddling for.

eventually caught three chest-high lefts, but had to kick out early on two b/c of the reef. nice day to go out, but just didn't connect w/that many waves!
 




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