such an accurate description of today. Lot of water moving, hard to get in the right spot, so many people out who shouldn't have been. Strong for its size too, fiance on the beach saw a few broken leashes, a snapped board and a nasty gash on a guys face....Got out today Carlsbad area. Quite a bit of power to that swell today, long wait between sets. And as other posters said a bit crowded. Got 5 head high rides, 3 of them very fun rights, 2 quickly walled up and closed out but i made it over the top before trouble. Really had to wait for the correct wave and be in the right spot more so than usual.
I almost never complain about crowds and just try and deal with it and find my own little zone, but today with the elevated conditions i will say there were people who probably should have not been out. Got almost dropped in on after going down the line for like 5 seconds and it was steep wall. Usually I just deal with it, but today i screamed at the guy while he was paddling in on me as it could have lead to a dangerous collision... and i was locked in and did not want him to fuck it up.
Also had a new one where a big cleanup set was coming in and we were all paddling frantically to make it over. Guy on my left starts paddling at a 45 degree angle for some reason and gets right in front of me maybe 8' away 5 seconds before a 7' wall is going to fall on us. I yell at him, somewhat politely to paddle straight and not cut me off... He looked at me and seemed oblivous to the peril he could have put us both in.
Anyway it was a bit wonky out there with most of the bigger sets being walled up. After my last good ride, i took 2 on the head paddling back out and felt that was enough. Rode the whitewater in on the 3rd wave of the cleanup set all the way ( i have to admit its kind of fun riding the soup on your belly when its big.. somewhat of a bucking bronco)
Been out 4 days in a row and works starts again tomorrow... hope to be back out soon after a couple days off.