How was your surf today?....share your stoke!

SDBoardHoarder

Well-Known Member
Sep 28, 2018
284
394
San Diego
Got out today Carlsbad area. Quite a bit of power to that swell today, long wait between sets. And as other posters said a bit crowded. Got 5 head high rides, 3 of them very fun rights, 2 quickly walled up and closed out but i made it over the top before trouble. Really had to wait for the correct wave and be in the right spot more so than usual.

I almost never complain about crowds and just try and deal with it and find my own little zone, but today with the elevated conditions i will say there were people who probably should have not been out. Got almost dropped in on after going down the line for like 5 seconds and it was steep wall. Usually I just deal with it, but today i screamed at the guy while he was paddling in on me as it could have lead to a dangerous collision... and i was locked in and did not want him to fuck it up.

Also had a new one where a big cleanup set was coming in and we were all paddling frantically to make it over. Guy on my left starts paddling at a 45 degree angle for some reason and gets right in front of me maybe 8' away 5 seconds before a 7' wall is going to fall on us. I yell at him, somewhat politely to paddle straight and not cut me off... He looked at me and seemed oblivous to the peril he could have put us both in.

Anyway it was a bit wonky out there with most of the bigger sets being walled up. After my last good ride, i took 2 on the head paddling back out and felt that was enough. Rode the whitewater in on the 3rd wave of the cleanup set all the way ( i have to admit its kind of fun riding the soup on your belly when its big.. somewhat of a bucking bronco)

Been out 4 days in a row and works starts again tomorrow... hope to be back out soon after a couple days off.
such an accurate description of today. Lot of water moving, hard to get in the right spot, so many people out who shouldn't have been. Strong for its size too, fiance on the beach saw a few broken leashes, a snapped board and a nasty gash on a guys face....
 

Couch

Well-Known Member
Mar 18, 2018
459
458
Santa Barbara
This is the first winter ever where it seems EVERYONE is in the water; never have I seen this before; usually just the regulars and decent surfers but now it is a carnival of boards flying, shoulder hopping and just unregulated lineups at SOME of the spots I hit. The ocean is everyone's for sure but just don't fricken take me out. But on a positive note, what a great start to winter we've had! YEEEEWWWt
 
Last edited:

ks77

Active Member
Jan 16, 2007
105
85
Culver City, CA
Very sadly yesterday late afternoon there were lifeguards and paramedics administering CPR to a surfer on the beach at C St when I was getting out of the water. I don't know the circumstances or who it was. Just a stark reminder for me of the power of our ocean. I don't know if he made it but I pray that he did.
 

SdSurferguy

Well-Known Member
Oct 18, 2006
1,947
1,527
USA
Excellent surf in south county early this morning before the tide went high. Today was one of the best sessions I've had in recent memory (and it's been a fantastic winter already packed with fun size surf, blue skies, and offshore winds).

Stoked for January, gonna be a good few weeks!
 

Eh_frame

New Member
Dec 31, 2020
1
3
NJ
Hi All, first time posting. I discovered the forum a few weeks ago - great community and a wealth of information you all have here!

I closed 2020 with a very fun surf on New Year’s Eve. Waist to stomach high rights on my Rozbern log with only a few others out. I had hopes for similar conditions on Saturday but the stiff offshores made things a touch more challenging. Still a fun way to start the new year. Cheers and wishing you all great surfing in 2021.
 

Chilly Willy

Well-Known Member
Feb 15, 2004
2,248
2,089
USA New Jersey
Civil Rights was good at head and a half and hollow. Tight takeoff zone led me to move further north sans board. Slipped on a pair of swimfins and bodysurfed into a dozen roomy barrels. No crowds in there.

Love it. I did that this fall and had the exact same experience. Just as memorable as my surf sessions, and dare I say more memorable than a lot of them.
 

Chilly Willy

Well-Known Member
Feb 15, 2004
2,248
2,089
USA New Jersey
Hi All, first time posting. I discovered the forum a few weeks ago - great community and a wealth of information you all have here!

I closed 2020 with a very fun surf on New Year’s Eve. Waist to stomach high rights on my Rozbern log with only a few others out. I had hopes for similar conditions on Saturday but the stiff offshores made things a touch more challenging. Still a fun way to start the new year. Cheers and wishing you all great surfing in 2021.

Welcome to the forum! Glad to hear someone else scored locally -- I had similar sessions to you on the same days. NYE was a ton of fun and running very nicely. Great ways to close out the year and start the new one.
 

Doggyfizzle

Member
Nov 23, 2020
32
40
Ventura
Very sadly yesterday late afternoon there were lifeguards and paramedics administering CPR to a surfer on the beach at C St when I was getting out of the water. I don't know the circumstances or who it was. Just a stark reminder for me of the power of our ocean. I don't know if he made it but I pray that he did.
They were there last Sunday (Dec 27) as well helping someone at the Fairgrounds lot. When I got out around 8:30 am on Saturday morning, there were a lot of people in the water on foamies and other ill-suited sticks that looked a bit shell-shocked with how strong the waves were. It seems like good conditions have turned into a magnet for folks that shouldn't be out, and it's been hard to distance myself in the lineup from these surfers to try and get a couple safe waves. I've started telling people (in polite fashion) to head up the road a little bit to Mondos, but it seems to fall on deaf ears because I keep seeing these same people back in the lineup.
 

SeniorGrom

Well-Known Member
Mar 20, 2012
3,155
2,026
USA New Jersey
This is the first winter ever where it seems EVERYONE is in the water; never have I seen this before; usually just the regulars and decent surfers but now it is a carnival of boards flying, shoulder hopping and just unregulated lineups at SOME of the spots I hit. The ocean is everyone's for sure but just don't fricken take me out. But on a positive note, what a great start to winter we've had! YEEEEWWWt
Last Winter was the first I remember seeing what looked like surfers trying to paddle out in groups for their first surf ever. In some decent sized semi powerful waves. Totally clueless getting pummeled and dragged down the beach by current. Some fun huh!
 




Top