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Discussion in 'Surfing' started by Cuttlefish, Sep 27, 2012.
That has 3 extra fins
Depends...for today..just right..
Last friday..rfc speed dialers..
Tomorrow..2+1( TA greeno 4A 8" with 2 3.75" sides)
Friday..probably will slam the TA greeno 4A 9" in her..
That was is so wonderful about my yellow jacket..
Great trip to El Sal with the wife, unfortunately still suffering from a herniated disc at C7-T1 suffered at work on the FD. That being said, i chose to use it as a blessing in disguise. Quality over quantity and less show more flow was my mantra. I surfed through the pain some and took a few days off to rest. The last morning of the trip was nothing short of magical. Paddles out before sunrise at Sunzal to a rising swell and light offshores. 2-3ft overhead and perfect. Rode 7’2 Mabile honeybadger w/ single 7.5” frye volan. Caught 2 good set waves before anyone showed up. Caught one as the sun rose and painted the entire face of the wave in front of me with orange and purple hues. Deep drawn out bottom turn behind the peak to big wrapping cutback with enough speed to square back up to oncoming section and carve back into re-entry toe side, gently lift up the face, more effortless speed to another open face carve, this time to the boots of those paddling out. One more turn and kick out into the channel. One of the top 10 sessions of my life. Here’s a pic as I ate breakfast, the word got out, and all the Brazilians woke up
Patrick that sounds awesome
looked better than it was, wind chill factor was off the charts, ugh, but was nice to paddle out and get in a nice morning rinse, still can't go backside worth doodoo...first world problems
OK, "share my stoke you say," in SB we have not been stoked but more skunked. October was FLAT, but stoked it is....so today I took out my softop and just went for a paddle- I had forgotten how much joy there is in just simply connecting with the ocean- water was clear, pretty warm and not a soul was out. Very zen and relaxing to just sit off the point and listen and tune in. I highly recommend it!
Another morning of decent, minimal crowd surf at the jetty. Yesterday was myself and @Roadmaster , I believe, for a couple hours of just us two. But more importantly, here's to you, post surf coffee drinkers and poop takers.
Had to work early. Been slow lately at dawn. Good to hear someone is getting it. I’ll add to the coffee pics.
The planned early morning session yesterday was off for traditional reasons (it was flat). Long meetings and heavy traffic delayed my evening surf session.
I arrived and the sky was already orange/pink with heavy cloud cover making it pretty dark. A large group of groms at the better left pushed me to the main area and I lucked out with a couple of friends sitting on the outside, keeping the tourists on the inner break. A couple big overhead close-out lefts got me way to the left for my last take-off, the wave pitched at the reef and I thought my 9'4" had seen its last wave as I felt nearly vertical going down the face- I think the size of the wave helped me out because after the nose dipped just long enough to throw spray up I was able to push it left. Had it been brighter outside (it was getting pretty dark) I may have been tempted to pull into the hollow cavern that pitched over my head in front of me, but a dark black tumble thru the reef didn't appeal. As it was I took a line around it and raced out just ahead of the shallows in front of me. I paddled back out to catch a right into the beach and ended up camped for a bit waiting for a tourist to catch her last wave- I called her into it because she couldn't see anything, really- neither could I until it was on top of me, but she was inside enough to go. Short right and paddle back in the dark.
I googled the beach and put a 24 hour filter on- this IS what I was surfing in last night- its a tough life:
Last night I got out sooner. Surfwise- nothing spectacular, just warm clean rights about knee-thigh high. There was a monk seal and a turtle snoozing next to each other on the beach. I'd never seen both together and the tourists were enjoying it. My wife asked me what its called when you see things together like that... I eventually got that she was looking for "Trifecta" but we were one short of the "Trifecta". Two minutes later as she is paddling into a wave two big humpbacks clear the water about 200 yards off-shore. 20-30 seconds of high breaches and tail slaps... So we got our "Trifecta"!