How was your surf today?....share your stoke!

Discussion in 'Surfing' started by Cuttlefish, Sep 27, 2012.

  1. Driftwood

    Driftwood Well-Known Member

    Dec 2, 2014
    Drove down south on Friday and as it was low tide skipped my usual reef spots and surfed the easiest beack break on the French coast. A Tourmaline style wave that people look down on as smaller, weaker than the better spots elsewhere. But, zero vibe issues, no crowd at all for the first two hours, just trading waves and trading boards with a buddy and milking every wave all the way to the beach. Waist... occasional shoulder high sets. Gorgeous weather and warm water. Sometimes I think it's okay for a session to be that easy. Stoked just to be in the water.
  2. DanSan

    DanSan Well-Known Member

    Jun 7, 2012
    USA California
    More mid lenght fun
    8.0 fowler NVM..yellow jacket..
    Bumpy high tide...2+1 set up..just love it.
  3. Tlri

    Tlri Well-Known Member

    Oct 30, 2017
    Rhode island
    Stoke is ON!
    Forecast kept fading but it locked me in on the board choice.
    Point Judith sunrise session with waist high and occasional chest high sets.
    Phillips 12’ EPS glider with a @dingpatch fin forward in the box.
    SOOOO fun!
    Early takeoffs round cutbacks to stay in the pocket and nice long rides!
    GPS tracker was putting the longest wave at 515’.
    Glad I hit it early. About 7-10 others out when I was there, just looked at the cam and can count at least 70 people in the water.
  4. DanSan

    DanSan Well-Known Member

    Jun 7, 2012
    USA California
    Crazy fowler friday fun...sunny warm..
    Good waves..chest- shoulder.occ.head high..what a surprise...and barely anyone out.yes

    First sesh- rockview...bigger than sewers..yes
    Took the fowler V8...ade stuff i normally would on the yellow NVM....
    Went with local crazy old
    Second sesh-sewer.peak on platypus..
    Long flowing rides..but wild..thing..when i hit the did like the NVM..and floater...hmm chad marshall is onto sonething with this board..
    3hrs pooped out
    Bummer Dude, Bighouse and Driftwood like this.
  5. Thomas Morra

    Thomas Morra Member

    Sep 2, 2019
    Rhode Island
    Shoulder high to occasionally 2X overhead sets at Pt. Judith/Pilgrim yesterday. Surfed 3 sessions from 10:30 until dark. Absolutely unreal, it was going off all day! I got some waves that just seemed to never end... Doing multiple cutbacks and top turns on my Soundings 7’8” single fin, the stoke was real! Slept like a decaying log last night lol. ¡Gracias, Humberto!

  6. FalseDawn

    FalseDawn Active Member

    Si gracias Humberto!!! soy muy cansado. Beautiful weather and waves it's been a fun 24hrs.
    306Bing, Tlri, PeakMaster and 3 others like this.
  7. PeakMaster

    PeakMaster Well-Known Member

    Feb 15, 2004
    USA New Jersey CMC
    I'm picking sand out of both ears. Humberto hovered it seems. Gots to be some leftovers tomorrow.
    DanSan and 306Bing like this.
  8. NCJohn

    NCJohn Well-Known Member

    Oct 27, 2015
    Somewhere in Hatteras yesterday am about 6-8'. Snagged one of the biggest, roundest barrels of my life and I get back to the beach to see my wife (photog) excitedly waving the camera around only to find that she had snapped an amazing picture of a cormorant eating a large fish instead haha.

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Sep 22, 2019
  9. Chilly Willy

    Chilly Willy Well-Known Member

    Feb 15, 2004
    USA New Jersey
    The anti-stoke: Tail between my legs this morning. First, I will note that it was a spectacular morning. Shimmering beams of sun reaching over the horizon, dolphins rolling along the surface, and shadowy lumps rolling in highlighted with a fine mist spraying off the top. It's been bigger at my local spot than other surrounding areas (head high plus on set), but as amazing as it looked, I had a feeling that it was going to be a little too heavy for me. (Which is always ends up being a self-fulfilling prophecy when those thoughts enter your mind.) I paddled out and actually got out pretty easily, but I got a bit spooked by some of the sets. I took some whitewater in to reassess my position, then decided to give it another go. I took a set on the head, got pretty aggressively worked, and knew instantly that it wasn't for me. Super bummed out about it, but I've been surfing long enough to know my limits. Some of the other smaller spots nearby looked promising but still pretty heavy, so I think I'll regroup and maybe take another look when the higher tide softens things up a bit. Dang.



  10. michael

    michael Well-Known Member

    Apr 19, 2017
    You are hereby absolved of your guilt.
    Chilly Willy likes this.

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