How was your surf today?....share your stoke!

Discussion in 'Surfing' started by Cuttlefish, Sep 27, 2012.

  1. Chilly Willy

    Chilly Willy Well-Known Member

    1,730
    922
    Feb 15, 2004
    USA New Jersey
    My gills have been drying out, so I got up for dawn patrol yesterday... ugh, totally skunked. There was a decent pulse in the water but it was just breaking too shallow to ride.

    I got redemption later that day with a nice little sunset tow surfing session with some buddies. I've been waterskiing and wakeboarding, but never on a surfboard. Getting up was a bit tricky but once you're up, it was so much fun ripping that nice little endless wall. (Neither of these shots are me, but I think someone's got some footage.) It's got us wondering how a little twin keel fish would be for this. I have a whole new respect for the vids of Corey Colapinto ripping the wake without the tow rope. Awesome time though. Between that and enjoying a couple beers in front of one of the best sunsets all summer, it more than made up for getting skunked in the morning.

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    newlyn, DanSan, deemce and 1 other person like this.
  2. Driftwood

    Driftwood Well-Known Member

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    398
    Dec 2, 2014
    France
    Yesteday, tired of the frustration over my shoulder issues and accumulated time with medical services, conflicting advice from practitioners, and pain, I was in a rare funk.

    A buddy asked me if I wanted to dawn patrol at a spot I used to surf a great deal and still love, about a shoulder high swell forecast and light east wind. I am in no way suggesting that anyone else follow my example, but I blew off the medical advice received earlier that day and said sure, let's go surfing. Skipped the meds that are supposed to help me sleep but make me feel like an idiot.

    Slept like a baby (well, once my 17 year-old daughter got back in), woke up easily, and was in the water about 15 minutes before sunrise. I di take my anti-inflammatories. Decided to ride my old faithful 9'3" Murphy. I'll admit that I was careful, no late takeoffs, very easy paddling, but damn... Got a couple of good rights, a screamer of a left with a good floater at the end that had my two friends asking if I really had back/shoulder issues, and just a beautiful time altogether. No one else on or near our peak, it's a completely undeveloped stretch of coast, and the sunrise was gorgeous.

    I may pay for it later, but when I got to PT at 11 my theraptist was saying "I don't know what happened, but your cervicals haven't felt this right since you've been coming here." Led to an interesting converstation.

    When I finish getting all this sorted out in the coming weeks/months, I'll update the shoulder thread! Until then, my daughter said something like "Papa, you are just radiating positive energy!" when I came in the door this morning. What more can I ask for?
     
    sightpoint, dingdong, DanSan and 4 others like this.
  3. Driftwood

    Driftwood Well-Known Member

    946
    398
    Dec 2, 2014
    France
    Sunset session with the family tonight. Made a great picnic and had everything ready to go when my wife and son got back from work.

    Went swimming with my wife and we caught a couple of little waves bodysurfing. My son gracefully carried my '64 10'2" G&S over the dunes for me and I slid a couple little messy thigh to waist high waves while he boogieboarded. Been a few years since I've ridden that type of board - my first wave was great, just point and fly. Second wave reminded me of just how far we've come when I blew it. Came up laughing and then got into a nice little groove. So much momentum with this beast, but what a carefree fun little session.

    Dinner on the sand, sunset, and then my son carried it back over the dunes for me spare my back and shoulder. Life is good.
     
  4. Makawaosurfer93

    Makawaosurfer93 Well-Known Member

    1,472
    327
    Feb 15, 2007
    USA New Jersey
    On a quick getaway to Oahu, arrived yesterday to a great swell in town. Over head on sets and just a perfect hot/humid summer day in Waikiki. I was beat after an 10+ hour direct flight from NJ, so I decided to wait until today which was smaller, but still so much fun. 2- 3 feet with chest high sets. No pics from today, but here are some from my lanai in front of Canoes and Queens to the left from August 21.
     

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  5. DanSan

    DanSan Well-Known Member

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    608
    Jun 7, 2012
    USA California
    Well...bruce fowler..aka deadshaper...
    Has done it again for me...
    1st-8.2 V8 vbottom
    2nd-8.4 platypus...the og v/rbowls..i dunno..ha
    And now
    8.0 NVM...wow

    Sewer peak ..4-5'...solid..getting bigger
    Flowing turns..power...speed..as a single fin..9"4A..plus i felt i caught waves as easy as the other 2...but as a shortboard..for me...im 61..6.2...222lbs..banged up..but feeling better with Relief Factor..and these boards
    ...tomorrow..as a quad with F8s...

    Dang...
    youre a wizard
    ..man
     
    Bruce Fowler, deemce and dingdong like this.
  6. DanSan

    DanSan Well-Known Member

    1,436
    608
    Jun 7, 2012
    USA California
    Well...post AM session...same place..
    Now with these F8 quads courtesy..Freeline Surf.and peter mel...
    Wow...more power...
    And speed to burn...not to "manage"...ha..
    So with the 9" 4A...im set..
    However..i have those quartets..i gotta try on a bigger day..
    Again...bruce...thanks..
    I have felt this good on a "shortboard.".in a way long time.
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    deemce likes this.
  7. Patrick Riley

    Patrick Riley Active Member

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    May 15, 2018
    Jacksonville Beach
    Yesterday morning: saw a bunch of guys heading out of park with boards, got a thumbs down from one guy. I had a blast! Fun is in your mindset.


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  8. DanSan

    DanSan Well-Known Member

    1,436
    608
    Jun 7, 2012
    USA California
     
    Patrick Riley likes this.
  9. Ricksurfin

    Ricksurfin Active Member

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    163
    Jun 9, 2019
    So Cal
    Amen. Doesn’t have to be good to have fun.
     
    Patrick Riley likes this.
  10. DanSan

    DanSan Well-Known Member

    1,436
    608
    Jun 7, 2012
    USA California
    Plus i never pay the surfline or local 911 surfreport...any mind...so many times they said crappy.
    .waves..and i has a great session at poles..atlantic bch..near seminole...
    Or 16th street south..and near our house in ponte vedra beach..corona access...

    Same here....everyone on the cliffs watching...while we are riding..
     
    Last edited: Aug 25, 2019
    Patrick Riley likes this.

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