How was your surf today?....share your stoke!

Discussion in 'Surfing' started by Cuttlefish, Sep 27, 2012.

  1. dsquare

    dsquare Active Member

    May 16, 2013
    USA Hawaii
    Forecasts all say flat but I peeked in on one of my spots yesterday and their were chest high faces. Told my wife we could go out together at her spot in the morning or I would go to the spot I saw earlier. Checked conditions again and she decided to dawn patrol with me at her favorite spot. Though it looked pretty sad and the wind was blowing I could see a few outside reefs breaking so I paddled out while she waited for more light. Caught some solid chest to head high faces left and had some long rides. The wait between waves was long and the wind was pushing us out so we had to pay attention. After 5-6 waves I decided to head in for work and my wife was cold so she called it as well. I waited for a right to go in on and she sat a little inside. Good medium wave came and I started paddling but told her to go too. I picked it up and started moving down the line. She was back on her board and got hesitant. Didn't drop in quick enough and ended up dropping late and made me hit the brakes. I took her board in the lower leg. Can't get mad though... Overall good morning, some solid lefts, and a bruise to show the kids.


    This GIF is too big to play on the board but Applekat will appreciate it. [​IMG]
    Last edited: Jan 30, 2019
  2. dingdong

    dingdong Well-Known Member

    Jan 14, 2013
    USA California
    you should post on surfermag forums on what to do when your wife drops in on you and takes you'll probably ask for pics! haha
  3. dsquare

    dsquare Active Member

    May 16, 2013
    USA Hawaii
    Probably true! She is way more popular than me in that line-up so I don't dare cross her!
  4. NCJohn

    NCJohn Active Member

    Oct 27, 2015
    Me at Honolua Bay almost 2 years ago to the day. Shot by my awesome wife from the cliffs. And again by me in the kitchen this morning hence the strange glare in the corner :D. Man i wanna go back.
  5. ParSurf

    ParSurf Active Member

    Nov 16, 2018
    Milwaukee Oregon
    last wave of the day, biggest, longest noseride I’ve done. It was pretty funky out there. Close outs stayed open and nice shoulders closed out. Got this one in and decided I wasn’t gonna get a better one so I called it.
  6. Roadmaster

    Roadmaster Well-Known Member

    Nov 19, 2015
    USA Virginia
    It was pretty much flat today here in Virginia Beach, but conditions were perfect aside from no swell and 44 degree water. But I did have my new Phillips SWT2, so went out for a surf and had some fun on the new board. The board did well in the super small surf, sure was stable. I cannot wait for some bigger waves.

    wave of the day;


    The big picture, headed home

    DJR, aussie-surfer, dingdong and 10 others like this.
  7. Chilly Willy

    Chilly Willy Well-Known Member

    Feb 15, 2004
    USA New Jersey
    It's tough to tell with the lighting and no size reference, but I scored this morning just before sunrise. Chest high, just the right angle, breaking point break style. A really nice day for a midlength -- rode the 7'4" v.Bowls. I almost let myself get a little timid after taking a cold, bigger one on the head on the paddle back out, but then I remembered what someone said here recently: either you're the hunter or the hunted. With that in mind, I got more aggressive and paddled back closer to the point. I scratched into a nice last one that I otherwise might have dismissed as too late a takeoff, and it paid off -- I nailed the drop and hooked right into a long one to end my session and start my day. Coffee always tastes better after a nice DP.

  8. michael

    michael Well-Known Member

    Apr 19, 2017
    CW you’re my hero.

    Too often when daybreak is around high tide I’ll imagine myself twisting my whole morning around to get there and have it be flat.... need to take more chances !
    Chilly Willy likes this.
  9. dsquare

    dsquare Active Member

    May 16, 2013
    USA Hawaii
    Yesterday- Dawn patrol and both spots were a bust. Pouted all day at work. Decided to head down after work to see if the spot nearest my office downtown (Kalapaki's) was on. It was. Ran a quick errand to the high school and came back. I should note that as I was driving down the dirt road out of the lot, toward the dock I watched a kid get completely shacked on a left, he was more surprised than anyone by the overhead barrel and ended up grabbing an early exit. Got back, changed, and paddled out. A bit crowded, with everything you can imagine out. Shortboards inside, longboards inside and outside, SUP's, prone foilers, SUP Foilers, and a surf canoe. Paddled to my morning take-off spot and didn't know a soul. Just let lots of waves go thru and work with a teenage girl who knows my daughter and a guy tandem riding with his 4 year old and encourage them into some waves. First wave I paddle for a local girl drops in on me and stay 10 feet in front the whole way. Next wave a guy does the same thing. We just chat and laugh about it after the wave is over. Next wave is smaller and I manage a weak walk to the nose and back but I have it by myself. I get clobbered with everyone else on an outside set and reposition myself for those. Patience pays out and I pick up a bomb with an obstacle course of people inside of me. Make a good drop and get hoots, shakas and smiles from a few friendly faces. A few more good drops and a really solid run ahead of the white water and the sun started dropping. It got cold fast.

    On my way out.... Kalapaki (note foil border left top center going right)
    IMG_2746 edit .jpg

    Zoomed foil boarder shot. People ride everything here- while some locals with SUP or SUP foils can sometimes take over an area, usually there are plenty of waves to share. Foils are so fast, as long as everyone works together and the foilboarder knows what he is doing its not hard to share waves.
    IMG_2746 edit foil.jpg

    One more to make you all jealous- this was where I saw a kid get a barrel a couple hours previously, but this set isn't as big.
    IMG_2750 edit .jpg

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Feb 7, 2019
  10. FirstPointEric

    FirstPointEric Well-Known Member

    I recently wrapped up a trip to visit my folks and friends in LA and, other than one great session at Topanga, I got skunked. After surfing Topanga on the first full day there, it rained every single goddamn day for a solid week, which led to really skanky, sketchy water for the next week and made for many depressing days on the surfing front. Finally, the water cleaned up but then whatever leftover swell there was just fell over and died. For days, there were almost no waves at all between SB and SD and then, just as I was going to go (board on the roof of the car, ready for a DP sesh)....I was awoken at 4am to the sound of more rain. Gaaaah! Three weeks, one surf. Double gaaaah!

    I do have to be appreciative for the Topanga session though: it was really great. Forecast was 2-3' but when I arrived, I scrambled to quickly suit up as it was actually head high+, clean and lined up. Rode the 12'0" GP pintail and got several waves all the way into the cove, rides that were easily half a minute long. It ain't Scorps but it still made my day.
    Last edited: Feb 7, 2019
    Chilly Willy and SeniorGrom like this.

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