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Discussion in 'Surfing' started by Cuttlefish, Sep 27, 2012.
stoked this last Sunday.
Surprisingly good little waist to stomach groundswell with some bigger random sets. Close friend only other person within hundreds of yards. Blue sky cold water and fast clean lefts. First time riding the Mandala California Stubbie quad just got in a trade with JMJackFish Needed this as its already been a long week...
From sunrise on yesterday went as forecast.
New Years Day Virginia Beach, water shots of me on my Phillips Pig. Warm day but cold water. I bought the golden first light shot so I do not thing the photographer will mind me posting these shots. I hope I do not jinx things but should be getting my new JP 10' SWT2 soon.
waist to chest high offshore peeeeeeellllerrrrrrrrrrrrsssssssss!
Saturday 1/26, South Jersey - almost didn't go... the backyard thermometer read 17'F, the rhododendron were curled up, it was dark. But the buoy was showing 3.0 ft. at 10 sec. OK, gotta go, haven't been out in almost a month. Pull up to the spot and almost no cars; don't even check, just get changed. First look, and only a few guys out down the beach and nice glassy, waist-high peelers breaking with no one at this sandbar. Surfed a good hour by myself - no wind at all, sun was out, nice period and consistent swell kept me busy. Some really nice walls lining up for long rides to the beach. One guy paddled out on a shortboard after about an hour and we traded waves for another 45 minutes. At that point I couldn't feel my feet anymore, so I called it. So much fun, and the 9'4" Trimulux/4a combination is really starting to click.
Nice @jgilliga90! So funny, I had a similar NJ experience. A great day for the Trimulux/4a combo.
I've been out of the water for a month after a long, lingering cold, but I finally felt good enough to plunge into frigid water. I rolled up to my usual spot, which looked 100% unfamiliar to me after the recent beach replenishment project. The waves actually looked pretty good but with a bit of juice to them and what looked like a shallow bottom, I was wishing I brought something shorter than the Trimulux and longer v.Bowls that I brought. I decided to go on a surf seeking mission to find the right wave for me and my boards. I ended up zeroing in on a fantastic spot -- I saw it down the beach, then ping ponged from street to street to finally find a way to get to it. The reward was excellent rolling rights, very consistent and the occasional chest high set if you waited long enough. There was no one in sight, so I called a buddy to come join me. I surfed for a while by myself on the Trimulux, figuring out the spot and enjoying my thoughts and the silence, broken by the occasional loon call. Some really nice walls for a nice cutback, or even just to let your gut hang out and enjoy. My buddy finally showed up, he had his COS D'evolution under his arm -- he was the winner of the Beach House raffle fundraiser for Tony at COS. (I'll post my review on that thread. Spoiler: I loved it once I got the hang of it.) I was also happy to see him spin around on my Trimulux and get the wave of the day, disappearing from my sight for a while behind the wave and reappearing way down the beach.
Overall, it was an excellent session. The seek-and-surf adventure made it fun, and I feel like I really earned that session after finding that one beautiful little secluded spot.
Pre-work dawn patrol this morning. I returned to the little secret spot that I found on Saturday. It has changed a little bit since just a couple days ago, but it turned into a mini point break. A little too much east in the swell was causing some closeouts, but there were still some great ones sweeping in and holding up. I rode the Trimulux for a bit before swapping out for the 7'4" v.Bowls -- should have ridden it the whole time because it was a blast. Also, not sure I ever noticed this before, but some of the sets were big enough to block the sun and cast a pretty big shadow on the water. As I was paddling for them, right before takeoff, an ominous shadow would sweep over the wave face from behind like something big and scary was looming behind you. The first time I thought I was going to eat it for sure, but it wasn't nearly as bad as it seemed in that brief instant. So cold out there though! Air temp was 20 degrees when I got to the beach with brutal icy wind blowing down the street, and the sand was frozen hard as a rock.
You’re shadow description reminded me of a pre-sunrise sensation I had almost forgotten about. It’s been some time since I paddled out that early. Makes the wave feel bigger and more critical just at the moment you are about to pop up. Only at dawn. “Getting Shade” usually refers to being in the barrel. Not in this case but almost as cool. Thanks!
Exactly! I thought for sure it was going to dump right on my head from behind the first time it happened. After that, it turned out to be a helpful little cue to know when to give it a little extra umph of paddle power.