Horses for courses or one hammer for every nail?

jory

Well-Known Member
Dec 25, 2005
778
807
United Kingdom
So I think some boards are easier to surf in any given conditions but in reality a decent surfer can make anything work in any conditions up to a point.

For me, I’ve always thought of it in terms of feelings and lines drawn. I don’t get to travel much so I surf different boards in the same waves for different feelings. It’s not often about what works “best” but about the feelings I’m inspired to explore at that time.

That said if it’s waist high or below it’s always a single fin log and if it’s over stomach high it will not be a longboard. Actual board choice depends on how dumpy / messy / walled up it is and whichever design branch I’m stoked about experiencing at the moment.

I kinda get the view that surfing too many different things is bad for your surfing but I’d counter that by saying that although I ride a lot of different stuff, there’s a common thread of trim and glide and lateral lines across all the board I own.
 

shredsickgnar

Member
Aug 7, 2021
24
60
Canada
I can and have surfed everything from knee high mush to double over head beach break on a Gary Hanel Pill. I change out the fins when it's big but that board has worked in everything for me. My beach break doesn't really barrel though.

Now I'd just ride a log when its small and a fish or pill when its big. I don't need to force turns in tiny surf any more when I could be enjoying myself on a log.
 
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West81

Member
Jun 28, 2021
87
94
Hollandia
I also like surfboards and spending money on them

The first 10 years of surfing I only had one board. Always an alrounder performancy type longboard. Surfed those things in everything

Now I have like 10 boards

- Small and clean I get my 10' noserider
- Small and clean and busy I get my 11 footer
- Small to medium and busy I also get my 11 footer
- Medium and up I usually get my 8 midlength
- Overhead and over I mix it up a lot: fast longboard or midlength but also shorter eggs and twin fish or something

I prefer to surf a lot of different boards

Looking into buying a gunnish board specifically for France
 

pintail

Well-Known Member
Feb 19, 2004
838
287
LA, California
I also like surfboards and spending money on them

The first 10 years of surfing I only had one board. Always an alrounder performancy type longboard. Surfed those things in everything

Now I have like 10 boards

- Small and clean I get my 10' noserider
- Small and clean and busy I get my 11 footer
- Small to medium and busy I also get my 11 footer
- Medium and up I usually get my 8 midlength
- Overhead and over I mix it up a lot: fast longboard or midlength but also shorter eggs and twin fish or something

I prefer to surf a lot of different boards

Looking into buying a gunnish board specifically for France
I'd recommend a CI Black Beauty. I have a 6'9" that was comfortable in a DOH session.
 
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Driftwood

Well-Known Member
Dec 2, 2014
1,434
1,175
France
I also like surfboards and spending money on them

The first 10 years of surfing I only had one board. Always an alrounder performancy type longboard. Surfed those things in everything

Now I have like 10 boards

- Small and clean I get my 10' noserider
- Small and clean and busy I get my 11 footer
- Small to medium and busy I also get my 11 footer
- Medium and up I usually get my 8 midlength
- Overhead and over I mix it up a lot: fast longboard or midlength but also shorter eggs and twin fish or something

I prefer to surf a lot of different boards

Looking into buying a gunnish board specifically for France
Where in France ? Lotta coastline and a lot of different waves... :)
 

paipodude

Active Member
Oct 27, 2019
134
151
Maryland, or By-the-Sea
I would generally recommend getting dialed into an all-around board that is ridden in a wide variety of conditions. Once a person has mastered that one board they are prepared to start discriminating between lengths, plan shapes, rails, rockers, thickness, etc., and my favorite potential game changer, skegs.
 

JaM

Member
Jan 29, 2018
71
75
GC
The less i surf the more boards i want………

The more i surf the more i know i don’t need that many boards cause the waves make me humble again and make me realise i am just a below average surfer and i don’t need a quiver like Joel Tudor.

Just spend four weeks surfing on the Canary Islands with just one board (6’2 twin fin) and it worked just fine. In those 4 weeks i had two days without waves and i bought a 6’0 takayama scorpion……
Ha ha so true! Flat spells and I am frothing over different exotic beauties, but when I am surfing regularly I realise I have all that I need under my feet...... and then my fin fetish rears it's ugly head
 

hardyw

Member
Jun 26, 2021
28
43
NJ
Lots of good points made. I freely admit that my quiver should belong to a much more skilled surfer. I kind of consider surfcraft and collecting a separate hobby. Obviously it coincides with the act of surfing but the history of building boards and collecting and learning and fins and bottom contours and different materials used etc is such an undertaking as a hobby that it almost deserves to stand on its own.

I totally agree with the sentiment of less surfing time = more time coveting different boards.
 




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