can anyone help me better understand (surf) nostalgia

cuda

Well-Known Member
Aug 23, 2007
1,867
1,453
The thought occurred to me while reading over these stories of bygone days and favorite boards, top 10 this that and the other I honestly find myself a little envious. When i think about what is being shared I cannot find within myself any common sentiment. I wonder if I'm a cyborg or something. lol. Does my surfing suck that badly, did I start smoking pot too young or maybe should never have stopped?

I guess i'm okay with it being lost on me but am left to wonder if it's a genetic or socialization thing that I lack.

Surfing and sports more generally, have always been a form of escape for me. They are kind of drug-like i guess. I need them for the ego boosting effect and rush but while engaged in them its as if i stop recording. Consequently, when I hear others talk about their experiences I feel that i'm maybe missing out on being able to assign any meaningful value to my experience. Is this disconnected thing familiar with any of youz internet friends?

For those who are able to tap into the richness, who have accumulated stories and affection for your surfing life do feel the same about other hobbies? Or is there something special about the surfing experience?
 
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Planktom

Well-Known Member
Dec 27, 2016
1,053
958
Devon, UK
That's a great question Cuda. I think what you are describing in that 3rd para is commonly referred to as Flow State - that Leary-esque position of being completely involved. If anything, it's being more connected, rather than disconnected.

In a wider sense - there seem to be those who connect with their love in different ways. I started skating 40yrs ago this year and still skate as much as I can, however my body lets me. It used to irritate me when peers would seemingly post endless photos of the past, decks they have bought to hang on the wall etc. rather than making the effort to go skating right now and squeeze the last drop out of the actual 'doing' it before we can literally no longer do it.

However, I know that the wider aspects of the culture, just like surfing, are the things that have a foothold in people's hearts for whatever reason - that particular time of their lives, a board/place/wave that has significance to them for whatever reason.....

But yea, ramblings aside, the best thing about surfing is surfing, right here and now, 100%. Same for skating, for me anyways.
 
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SeniorGrom

Well-Known Member
Mar 20, 2012
3,307
2,299
USA New Jersey
There’s also the differences between ‘organized team’ sports and more individualized sports activities. Some of us are more social animals others seek an escape into some natural state. Though even in surfing I connect with certain tribes or smaller groups, I still tend to paddle off by myself. Yucking it up, chit chatting while waiting for sets to appear is distracting to me. Talking about boards a stranger is riding gets my interest though. I see the charm of hooting, splashing, stoked groms sitting on the inside, but not my thing. I’m best with a quiet few paddling & looking for an outside peak. I was never one for snapping wet towels at teammates in the locker room.
 

Niau

Well-Known Member
Dec 18, 2020
241
401
Necarney City
Out of doors, in our element, with friends, good clean fun, some degree of risk/challenge, deep breathing, the occasional (for most) total absorption in the moment, etc. That's a potent formula for creating lasting impressions.

Surfing is one of a small category of (mostly) unadulterated peak experiences. One can become jaded at any age, but even a mediocre day riding ocean waves is a rare privilege. I just turned 70 and it's looking like the days of riding my preferred style of wave while standing may be over. I still love the fast round ones, but I'm mostly riding them prone these days. Got a new custom ride coming...
 

Yosh

Active Member
Jan 31, 2019
128
163
El Segundo
My mantra to this is that everyone has their own surf journey. Some pick up logging early and perch his brain off right in front of you when you just found out how deep and fun logging is but you're already old and knees hurt and cannot drop knee with style. Some get to travel to Mexico, Indo, Morocco and cherish the best waves of their lives while you are stuck with a quick hour session locally before your kids soccer practice and continue the routine until they graduate high school. But in the same sense your soul can never be copied by someone, nor could it ever be stolen, your surf journey is the one and only. At the end what stokes you is the only thing essential for you. Finding no common sentiment is normal I think because it's not your journey, and in my case, I can't relate by only surfing local beach breaks or points for the past decade haha
And I only have 3 boards haha(cry)haha but more than enough to keep me stoked - going into 7th year with my HotGen and it still blows my mind. But it's not really the gears nor if tropical island or not. It's that moment of experience sliding down on a beautiful natural phenomenon that keeps you sane and back to your natural state. It's def not a sport for me, but for some, it's an act to maybe become an Olympic gold medalist? and all hail to that it sounds like an awesome surf journey ;)
 

michael

Well-Known Member
Apr 19, 2017
1,767
2,104
NJ
Cyborgs can still love

1623263532688.jpeg
 

SMUKES

Well-Known Member
Jun 23, 2009
3,040
988
USA California
The thought occurred to me while reading over these stories of bygone days and favorite boards, top 10 this that and the other I honestly find myself a little envious. When i think about what is being shared I cannot find within myself any common sentiment. I wonder if I'm a cyborg or something. lol. Does my surfing suck that badly, did I start smoking pot too young or maybe should never have stopped?

I guess i'm okay with it being lost on me but am left to wonder if it's a genetic or socialization thing that I lack.

Surfing and sports more generally, have always been a form of escape for me. They are kind of drug-like i guess. I need them for the ego boosting effect and rush but while engaged in them its as if i stop recording. Consequently, when I hear others talk about their experiences I feel that i'm maybe missing out on being able to assign any meaningful value to my experience. Is this disconnected thing familiar with any of youz internet friends?

For those who are able to tap into the richness, who have accumulated stories and affection for your surfing life do feel the same about other hobbies? Or is there something special about the surfing experience?
Just surfing, I gotta lotta stories.
 




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