Big surf, far from beach, and a broken leash safety tips.

Surfnfish

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Feb 6, 2015
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PNW between here and there
Leash? don't need no stinkin leash...
 

miscreant

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May 20, 2016
2,519
1,220
I was surfing in the Caribbean once. 6'8" thruster. a reef. slabs. got a few. then got taxed. I ended up on the outside of the reef where the other 3 surfers were (all on near 9' gun type things) with out my board. leash broke. there was a tremendous amount of water moving everywhere.

There was a period of time where I was trying to psychically will one of those dudes to give me their board so I could paddle it in, or catch a wave, find my board, then paddle their board back out to them through the channel. the channel was flowing out to sea. it didn't work. I mustered the courage to ask them verbally (they were sitting in a tight grouping).

I was declined.

that swim in was terrifying.
 

Planktom

Well-Known Member
Dec 27, 2016
928
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Devon, UK
Now that you mention it seat belts are old technology. Surfing now has airbags like cars too. Those chargers wear both leashes and airbags. Blasphemy!! Maybe Mark Healey and his 5 minute breath hold training getting picked up by a jet ski isn’t really surfing but just a haole weenie.

I wear a leash more often than not, I just don't rely on it.

Just like moderating the brakes on an old car without ABS, you can learn a lot about yourself and the vehicle you're driving. The same learning carries through to every vehicle you drive thereafter.

Go straight and inflate my man.
 

Surfnfish

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Feb 6, 2015
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PNW between here and there
reason why I finally had my hip replaced at 64....28 yrs old, peak condition, surfing Hanalei pre-leash for 2 weeks straight, big day, solid session going, over confident went late on a turn and go...pitched, stuck a leg into the face while cartwheeling down, fracturing my right hip...40 min swim in through heavy water, hurt too friggin bad to kick even the good leg so arms only...never saw my 9' Chuck Vinson gun again... on the plane home with crutches the next day, out of the water for 3 months...shit happens, gotta be ready for it
 

Planktom

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Dec 27, 2016
928
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Devon, UK
@SeniorGrom

Hmm, the comparison between what 99% of the surfing populace do in terms of using equipment to the likes of Healey et al is not really a direct one.

I grew up surfing alongside one of the pioneers of tow surfing at Nazare and a good friend who spent a few seasons as boatman in Tavarua (often with Healey, funnily enough) and now resides in Bali, often paddle surfing Ulu Bombie when it's tow-sized.

Both use vests, but again, they are both ready for when they fail, just as the likes of you and I should be when our leashes inevitably fail, I would say.
 
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Planktom

Well-Known Member
Dec 27, 2016
928
745
Devon, UK
reason why I finally had my hip replaced at 64....28 yrs old, peak condition, surfing Hanalei pre-leash for 2 weeks straight, big day, solid session going, over confident went late on a turn and go...pitched, stuck a leg into the face while cartwheeling down, fracturing my right hip...40 min swim in through heavy water, hurt too friggin bad to kick even the good leg so arms only...never saw my 9' Chuck Vinson gun again... on the plane home with crutches the next day, out of the water for 3 months...shit happens, gotta be ready for it

Sounds terrifying....! And painful!!
 

dsquare

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May 16, 2013
520
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USA Hawaii
reason why I finally had my hip replaced at 64....28 yrs old, peak condition, surfing Hanalei pre-leash for 2 weeks straight, big day, solid session going, over confident went late on a turn and go...pitched, stuck a leg into the face while cartwheeling down, fracturing my right hip...40 min swim in through heavy water, hurt too friggin bad to kick even the good leg so arms only...never saw my 9' Chuck Vinson gun again... on the plane home with crutches the next day, out of the water for 3 months...shit happens, gotta be ready for it

I can't even imagine. My worst experience was paddling out near last light in Westport, WA at the jetty. Underestimated the size of the sets. My leash snapped when I was caught inside after missing a wave. There is a strong current next to the jetty, board ended up on those rocks outside and a local guy grabbed it and gave it to my wife who brought both boards in (not sure how). I spent a lot of time underwater trying to stay away from the rip and locate my board. A few times I didn't know if I would make it in- and I would venture to say that I can outswim 95% of the folks in the water on any given day. Cold water and lack of light certainly made it far worse.

Honestly, doing that with a broken hip might have ended me. Had an orthopedic surgeon friend fracture his femur at the same spot described above. Smaller day and he was closer. Dragged himself up the beach. Other surfers helped him to his truck. Called his wife and told her. Called his office and told them to get someone ready to meet him at the hospital when he arrived. Drove himself 2 hours to his hospital, kept his wetsuit bottoms on to hold it stable and drove with his left foot, didn't want the local hospital (Aberdeen) to touch him.
 

mightyrime

Member
Nov 10, 2020
54
68
oceanside ca
reason why I finally had my hip replaced at 64....28 yrs old, peak condition, surfing Hanalei pre-leash for 2 weeks straight, big day, solid session going, over confident went late on a turn and go...pitched, stuck a leg into the face while cartwheeling down, fracturing my right hip...40 min swim in through heavy water, hurt too friggin bad to kick even the good leg so arms only...never saw my 9' Chuck Vinson gun again... on the plane home with crutches the next day, out of the water for 3 months...shit happens, gotta be ready for it
that is super hardcore
 

mightyrime

Member
Nov 10, 2020
54
68
oceanside ca
As the original poster to this. I want to say for myself how this has added an entire new element to my surfing.

I surfed when i was a kid in the 80s when i spent summers in San Clemente ( grew up in Colorado). Dont even remember if i had a leash or not. Both my mom ( who grew up on the beach) and my uncle ( ex pro surfer from 70s / 80s) taught me a lot about ocean safety in the waves early on and those lessons have been with me forever. Now i never really went out when it was big nor did i get very good as i did not surf more than a few weeks a year. I messed around on the inside beach breaks so the lessons of this thread were not really relevant at such a young age. Then 25 years of no surfing, lots of skateboarding and snowboarding and punk rock.

I picked up the surfboard again when i lived in NYC, creeped back into it... Took over my life when i moved to California about 4 years ago.

Point to this timeline is when i picked surfing back up there were no mentors for me, nor did i really have any friends who surfed. All i learned i asked from people out surfing when i was out, surf shops, you tube videos, forums like this... and my uncle who is still around. And other than not using a leash when you are traditional logging and noseriding.. none of them ever said " knowing how to swim in from far out in serious conditions is as important as all the other skill sets in surfing" or "learn to surf without a leash to learn control and limits.. and practice your swim when you lose it" or "practice open ocean swimming"...nope none of that was ever mentioned. Maybe a couple fleeting sentences in articles read here and there about safety.

I now realize how absolutely critical it is.

From what i gather this was a fundamental skill that went along with the rest of surfing from days long gone. Before yesterday it was such a minor afterthought for me, and i am guessing for most out there that are learning ( or experienced as well) it is even less of a thought... if any thought at all.

I am actually super stoked about this as its just another skill to be learned and practiced which is part of the fun of this amazing thing of surfing. Lucky for me we have a HOA heated pool in our hood. Going to start doing some laps, work on form and endurance in my swim... and have some fun with my 6 year old who is working on his swim as well.

Thanks All... And i will definitely offer to help if i am close to you and you lose your board.
 




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