Longboard.net Forum - Since 1997

Bigger Boards

It’s hard to NOT come to the conclusion that nearly all longboard surfers these days are just dressing up in the same old, tired costume. Their boards are so generic, so retro, so focused on cosmetics, so unimaginative, so truly NOT custom. Not that they realize this of course. What the average Joe is riding is so disheartening. In many ways it’s only hurting them, but at least they don’t know it, proof that God is kind.

So, what is the problem?

An insightful friend pointed out to me that most surfers today have some sort of ‘X’ length formula burned into their brain. It states something to the effect that they feel ‘OK’ about riding a 9-0 at age 35. It’s safe, not too prone to ridicule…All based on what the ‘culture’ tells them is OK. At age 40, they compensate upwards to a 9-6, and continue upward. Just add 4” for every birthday over 40.

This is the most basic situation in the ever-aging surfing population. And even with that being the case, do you EVER see anything different for this huge mass of surfers? Never. What is culturally acceptable, not personally interesting, is what determines personal board choice. If you step outside this culturally accepted ‘norm’, watch out. What? A guy with something different?

Take your average aging surfer, liking longer boards but not really having the skills to ride like David N. on the nose. I fall into that category. I love the glide and trim of longer boards, but I’ve never hung ten, rarely five. How about you? Anyone else want to raise their hand?

So, why is it?

There are few forward thinkers in the surfing world, maybe even less so in the ranks of your common shaper. Unimaginative shapers, all replicating someone else’s tired ideas from 10-30 years ago. If left to the shapers out there, your average 45 year old will be riding the same board in 2045 as he is today. If the surf culture en masse started experimenting, the average guy’s surfing would improve....
anyone on it?
Ekstrom's quote on V bottoms is: Yeah, I'll make you one, but you're gonna hate me in six months. A failed experiment that only worked when the tail was cut into a swallow, ala the Mirandon brothers. Still, this is one of the nicer Vs from that era.

Swallow tail motif ...

From the collection of:

Mike Bonaguidi

I have been looking at pigs/piggish boards with the wide point back of center. I currently have a Cooperfish Nosedevil and I am looking for a board for non-ideal noseriding type conditions(more turning, trimming, with some hang fives). Is a board like this ideal? I am intrigued by this

Attached files
at times, I'll be out in the water and someone will be snaking everyone. I mean if that person lives by the golden rule, then aren't they saying "please snake me"?
Roy infects many threads. Once he gets on the thread it's very difficult to abstain from feeding him.

Hence this thread. May this thread be a place to cut and paste his efforts to stir the pot in hopes of keeping his threads alive, or cut and paste his efforts to stir the pot just for the sake of it.
like the title states, i'm selling my Subaru Legacy & now seek a replacement. anyone have or know of a Corolla wagon, 1995-97 Odyssey or similar in the SE Mass area for sale?

any help is greatly appreciated...

I have been mat surfing for 4 years. Its a blast especially at waves like Leo Carillo.

Who else does it?

We have finally set a date for this years swap meet for Saturday June 2nd. The swap starts at 10, but you are more than welcome to get their earlier. We had a great showing last year and are looking to make it even bigger. We now have the new addition of the Big Chill Surf Cantina which will be open all day with good brews, food, and live music. I look forward to seeing everyone there!

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