In my experience, if the wave isn’t too big you can push the board up so it rolls over the broken wave and avoid getting pushed back too much. If it’s a really large wall of white water I hold onto my board tight with my arms and legs and ride along with it. Trying to sink your body while...
Rode my 10’3” Vaq yesterday and today for the first time in months. Today was slow, mushy rollers that were stacking up and turning into little zipper lefts on the inside. The Vaq was perfect. Get in early, set a line, point and shoot. So much fun, need to ride mine more often.
Having identified you need something smaller than a longboard for bigger, steeper waves, I’d start with an eggish shape somewhere between 7’6” and 8’ (depending on your weight and paddle proficiency) set up as either 2+1 or thruster.
Agree. I'd contact one of those guys and discuss where you are gonna surf the board and how you want it to perform. Think that will be a more helpful and productive conversation than asking for one "like a Skip."
To me this is a communication issue. All good shapers are backed up and anyone wanting a custom right now needs to understand that. But if the shaper has been holding a deposit for that long and won't respond, that's a different issue entirely.
Paddled out at my usual (mellow) N. County peak 9:30 - 11.
2' and windy to boot, 20+ people out anyway. Warm water.
A couple guys checking out each other's (JC) Nelsons.
A guy on a tiny shortboard loudly excoriating one of the Nelson dudes for a perceived lack of deference to tiny shortboard...
“Somebody was trying to tell me that CDs are better than vinyl because they don’t have any surface noise. I said, 'Listen, mate, life has surface noise.'” - John Peel
Sand, wax and sandy wax are all part of the experience of surfing.