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pointsurfer
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| Joined: | Sat Feb 13th, 2010 |
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| Posts: | 39 |
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Posted: Sat Jul 31st, 2010 03:37 pm |
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| If your talking about Stewart Surfboard's, I custom order mine with a tail patch. They are more than happy to do this at no extra charge.
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Da Caveman
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Posted: Sat Jul 31st, 2010 04:38 pm |
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As much as the glass tail patch helps over time the box if not capped will still lead to cracking around the box. The two layers of 4 oz over the box gives you a greater long term solution to the cracked box problem.
Also there is more you can do to secure the box. to prevent the box from rolling in the board you can get two stringers set at 3/4" apart this allows the box bottom edges to be set just slightly on the stringers well as the sides of the box wedged between them. The extra stick also adds to the over all stiffening of the board and reduces its flex.
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pierpont-scott
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| Joined: | Thu May 11th, 2006 |
| Location: | Ventucky, Kazakhstan |
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Posted: Sat Jul 31st, 2010 04:48 pm |
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Da Caveman wrote:
Also there is more you can do to secure the box. to prevent the box from rolling in the board you can get two stringers set at 3/4" apart this allows the box bottom edges to be set just slightly on the stringers well as the sides of the box wedged between them. The extra stick also adds to the over all stiffening of the board and reduces its flex.
you could but the box is 1" wide and the the route has a slight gap on both sides say it adds to a 1/16" so a better distance would be 1 1/8" apart . just sayn
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Da Caveman
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Posted: Sat Jul 31st, 2010 06:06 pm |
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| If you do 1&1/8" then the box dose not sit on the stringers it is then floating in resin between them, even at 1" the box is not sitting on the stringers but lightly wedged. Yes the box may look some what cleaner when you don't cut slightly in to the wood but you give up a very small amount of wood and gain tons of strength.
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shapewright
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Posted: Sun Aug 1st, 2010 06:04 am |
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| The box is 1", allow 1/16th for each side = 1-1/8th, been this way since 1969, the sailboard guys came up with the stringer combo, the load they put on fins was too great to just route the boxes in foam
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Da Caveman
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Posted: Sun Aug 1st, 2010 08:01 am |
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| I get what you are saying and this will be the last I mention stringers because I do not want to go off the topic on this. Weather you do 1-1/8" stringer set up or as I like 3/4" set up, the more wood around the box the better for it. This leeds me back to the topic. Also the more glass around all parts of the box the better.
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FirstPointEric
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Posted: Wed Aug 4th, 2010 05:07 am |
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Da Caveman wrote: I get what you are saying and this will be the last I mention stringers because I do not want to go off the topic on this. Weather you do 1-1/8" stringer set up or as I like 3/4" set up, the more wood around the box the better for it. This leeds me back to the topic. Also the more glass around all parts of the box the better.
I agree. I prefer glass-ons, but when I have to get a box, more wood--especially cut into the wood--and more fiberglass = stronger box.
Here's a pic of the board, now capped (1st layer). Decided to do the layers in two steps, to avoid airbubble problems which seem to crop up with epoxy.
Eric
Attachment: DSC05481.JPG (Downloaded 64 times)
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FirstPointEric
Member
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Posted: Wed Aug 4th, 2010 05:09 am |
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| Cutting out the glass over the box opening, after the resin has gotten pretty solid, but before it's cured. Attachment: DSC05482.JPG (Downloaded 44 times)
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FirstPointEric
Member
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Posted: Wed Aug 4th, 2010 05:14 am |
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Any idea why my uploaded photos are showing up as downloadable attachments and not as....an actual image?
Eric
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miles
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| Joined: | Mon Feb 6th, 2006 |
| Location: | South Texas, USA |
| Posts: | 2830 |
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Posted: Wed Aug 4th, 2010 05:58 am |
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| I don't know but maybe it has something to do with the forum being offline for a day. I thought Ned was having an individual problem with the pic he posted on the Brian Bent thread and I tried to fix it for him and had the same problem so I deleted my version.
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RATZAX
Member
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Posted: Wed Aug 4th, 2010 04:19 pm |
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Eric- you are doing a nice job on that repair.
Please keep posting the pics.
Bernie
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jacobsteamrider
Member
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Posted: Wed Aug 4th, 2010 10:23 pm |
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shapewright wrote: The Bing with the twin sticks is OK, but the sticks are NOT right next to the box, twin sticks 1-1/8" apart with a cap is the best combo for longevity
Good catch Jim, the Levitator in the picture was an earlier version, they all come with 2) 3/16" stringers, 1 1/8" apart now.Attachment: #9441 9'4 Levitator_2.jpg (Downloaded 218 times)
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vegaluca
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| Joined: | Sat Jun 11th, 2005 |
| Location: | Co. Kerry, Ireland |
| Posts: | 268 |
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Posted: Wed Aug 4th, 2010 11:44 pm |
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I like it even more, it highlights the lovely nose.
Really looking forward to driving one next month.
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RATZAX
Member
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Posted: Wed Aug 4th, 2010 11:46 pm |
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vegaluca wrote: I like it even more, it highlights the lovely nose.
Really looking forward to driving one next month.
 Hey man get in line...me first
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FirstPointEric
Member
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Posted: Thu Aug 5th, 2010 06:24 am |
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RATZAX wrote: Eric- you are doing a nice job on that repair.
Please keep posting the pics.
Just laid the 4oz chevron fin patch/cap on top of the 4oz fin cap (4"x 14", parallel to the fin box). Wrapped the cloth around the rail onto the deck for extra strength. Still have lots of sanding to do, but it looks like it's going to turn out well. I highly recommend Resin Research epoxy. I've worked with others that simply don't mix well or easily and RR does both. Because it's formulated for board building, it spreads pretty evenly on it's own. I've got a surface coat additive that you use like styrene to make it lay a nice gloss coat.
You can see the apex of the chevron just below the dimensions laminate.
Aloha,
Eric
Attachment: DSC05498.JPG (Downloaded 25 times) Last edited on Thu Aug 5th, 2010 06:31 am by FirstPointEric
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RATZAX
Member
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Posted: Thu Aug 5th, 2010 04:55 pm |
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 You have done a spectacular job on that repair.
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Da Caveman
Member
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Posted: Fri Aug 6th, 2010 07:05 pm |
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Eric nice job on your repair.
Here is an example of how I prefer to set the box. 1st stringers 3/4 apart (so the box is almost completely incased in the wood). 2nd during the lamination the fin patch is set in place. 3rd the bottom of the board gets a full 4oz cap. 5th the box is set with one layer of 6oz wrapped around it. Last the box is sanded down to the 4oz and then capped with two layers of 4oz. It's more work over all but I believe it is worth it.Attachment: photo.JPG (Downloaded 122 times)
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all day
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| Joined: | Tue Mar 17th, 2009 |
| Location: | Honolulu, Hawaii USA |
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Posted: Sun Aug 8th, 2010 11:20 pm |
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What do you know about capping fin boxes? Probably banged that box in with your club! But really, don't know why it's not the industry standard............... so easy a caveman can do it!!!! 
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Da Caveman
Member
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Posted: Mon Aug 9th, 2010 03:36 am |
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| Probably not industry standard because it is an extra step. And in your case as your name implies it may take ALL DAY to complete the job.
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FirstPointEric
Member
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Posted: Mon Aug 9th, 2010 04:18 am |
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Caveman: that's the way to do a fin box. It makes perfect sense.
But can I ask if you've ever busted one of these out? If so, how bad
was it? Busted fin box would also mean busted stringers.
Curious to see responses. Earlier this thread, Zeph was talking
in terms like "tragic" when capped fin boxes were torn out.
Let us know what ya think. Also, thanks for all the kind words.
I'll post final pics of the repair when I finish the wet sanding.
FYI: Greg Loehr of Resin Research goes to 1500 grit paper
to get it to gloss.
Aloha nui loa,
Eric
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