What Were We All Doing Before Surfing...

Discussion in 'Surfing' started by applekat, Aug 2, 2018.

  1. applekat

    applekat Well-Known Member

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    Jul 31, 2007
    I often think about this.

    When we were younger.

    Before hopping on a board.

    Before feeling that first rush (and push) of whitewash....

    What exactly was it that dominated our interest? Before any of us knew better.

    Seriously.

    Beyond old Godzilla movies and the idea Mothra realistically posed a legitimate threat....

    image.jpeg

    When I was like 5-6yr old I pretended giant, chunky crayola magic markers were swords.

    I'd choose red (duh) and dramatically slash n' hack at a defenseless 18"x24" tablet of paper..thinking the wildly obscure, lethal-looking markings were mortal hits on an unsuspecting enemy's very soul.

    image.jpeg

    I was entirely untouchable...my training was far too rigorous for most to understand...let alone deal with in their hearts...I was immune, stoic & invincible:

    image.jpeg


    ....I was a champion of the people...releasing those desperate folk from tyranny--allowing sweet justice & reprieve...

    Was I victorious? Of course I was...we were all 5yr old...c'mon..the imaginary glory sustained us..

    image.jpeg

    Then.....we grew up..

    image.gif

    Well...sorta.....I did anyway.

    I began surfing in my 30's.

    Not the norm--I get that...just reality.

    I'd bravely dive down into double over-head thinking I was that invincible boy of my youth.

    I wasn't.

    My ass never looked nearly this good:

    image.jpeg

    I accepted it.

    So I stepped back to reflect...

    image.jpeg

    Christ was I a badass when I was all alone -- left to my own thoughts.

    What ever became of greatness?

    I was immortal...

    But....

    ....reality creeps in....

    image.jpeg


    Adolescence---a uniquely funny thing.

    Before losing my shit in shoulder-high.

    On what was probably a tongue depressor disguised...

    So..

    Where were you..what were you doing....before you stepped on a board.


    I'd like to know.
     
    Last edited: Aug 2, 2018
    ElBrooklyn likes this.
  2. applekat

    applekat Well-Known Member

    1,508
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    Jul 31, 2007
    Unrelated....sorta....I was PM'd now asking to include this...so here.

    You're welcome, "X".....(I'll spare your namesake)

    image.jpeg
     
  3. SeniorGrom

    SeniorGrom Well-Known Member

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    Mar 20, 2012
    USA New Jersey
    Besides B&W horror and monster movies, fishing and skiing.
     
  4. LÜGEN

    LÜGEN Active Member

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    Nov 6, 2016
    Oceanside
    I was riding bmx and bodyboarding
     
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  5. poidog

    poidog Active Member

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    Drugs and other sports, then other sports when I was able to quit the drugs. Started surfing in '72 so the chronology is concurrent, but was a mediocre DIII wrestler (unless I didn't like the guy), baseball until I was 22, fast-pitch softball until 30, slo-pitch until 50 (four teams at a time, regional tournaments, 150-plus games a year). My obsession with both sports baffles me now, wrestling beat me up and took my clothes, no recovery time, past bills now due, baseball bores me to tears. Also regret, every time I paddle out, lifting weights, which became an end to itself (once weighed 175, walking-around weight 150), but if we're going to start listing regrets I'd have to add the mullet, coaches shorts and a neon, day-glo wetsuit that, decades later, can still make me sit up and shiver.

    The question for me is: what will I do after surfing?

    Dream and cry.
     
  6. pilau

    pilau Well-Known Member

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    Jul 9, 2009
    USA Hawaii
    Skateboarding. That was my first deal. Uncle gave me one when I was 6. Immediately addicted.
     
  7. Human

    Human Active Member

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    Nov 20, 2016
    Oceanside
    Life before surfing: Skating and BMX.

    Life after surfing: Boxing
     
  8. Driftwood

    Driftwood Active Member

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    Dec 2, 2014
    France
    When I was young enough, I really thought I would become a pirate... then some sort of a cowboy-archaeologist hybrid. Sounded a lot like a smuggler, in fact. Had old branding irons and such hanging on my walls and was way more interested in hitting the hills to shoot my .22 than heading to the beach, despite a few memorable tubes on a boogie-board.

    Then, around 13, my brother being really hooked, I started getting into it by default. Was starting to dig sailing and since we were already on the coast... The big clicker for me, though, was watching the Endless Summer and then picking up a '61ish Hobie from a neighbor's wood pile. Game changer, non, life changer.
     
  9. Makawaosurfer93

    Makawaosurfer93 Well-Known Member

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    Feb 15, 2007
    USA New Jersey
    Didn't live too close to the beach growing up, but after some buddies and I moved to Hawaii, I learned to bodysurf (Sandys, Makapuu, Waimea shore break, off the wall), then sponge (mostly south shore between Diamond Head and Koko Head), then longboard (Waikiki, Diamond Head), then short board (Town and Country) My "short" was a 6'10" Willis Bothers. So, in short, I just got stoned and played basketball, and mountain bike.
     
  10. Veterano

    Veterano Well-Known Member

    1,137
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    Aug 29, 2013
    "surfing is the only life for me, the only life for me"
     

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