What are you guys riding on steeper days?

Discussion in 'Surfing' started by michael, Jun 7, 2017.

  1. miscreant

    miscreant Well-Known Member

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    May 20, 2016

    Pierpont Scott,

    Do you think Duke Kahanamoku , Phil Edwards, Bob Cooper, Mike Hynson, Robert August, Skip Frye...guys that maneuvered a single fin longboard similarly to these guys ... are not "actuually performing "?

    Seriously wandering.

    I think they are. I think they understand their equipment, and exploit its performance capacity masterfully.

    Regarding "high pro". That's super funny!

    I'd say the cape st Francis footage in the endless summer shows a steep wave.

    I was imagining being beamed back in time standing next to Bruce as he is filming. The session ends, I walk up and tell Mike & Robert that the surfing they just did on their "turd pigs " wasn't "actually performance" oriented surfing. That thought had me laughing pretty hard.

     
    Last edited: Jun 14, 2017
  2. Freddibetts

    Freddibetts Active Member

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    USA New York
    Waves I ride are pretty soft compared to hollow draining reef breaks. Ability age and fitness come into play too. If you can't paddle down the face, pop up, and make that first bottom turn, things will end badly. Confidence in your equipment helps too.

    I agree that its the archer - not the arrow and confidence in your equipment are what really make the difference. Take a look at the history of surfing, monster waves on larger and less "finely tuned" boards. Find confidence, and then get a board that will endorse the confidence and your should have no prob on steeper days.
     
  3. SeniorGrom

    SeniorGrom Well-Known Member

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    USA New Jersey
    It would be incredible to paddle and ride a shortboard in heavy conditions. Duck diving 8-10 time paddling out and have a vertical attack punching through the lip with the nose pointed straight toward the sky. Aint happening with these old legs. Sometimes I get denied when paddling out (not often). Mostly I'm seeking the most powerful parts of the wave for trim and speed, maybe a floater past a couple sections down the line. Not radical but seeking constant improvement and fun. Do take myself a little to seriously at times in the water.
     
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  4. DKNJ

    DKNJ Member

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    Ocean, NJ
    well played sir, well played
     
  5. Surfnfish

    Surfnfish Active Member

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    If big and outside, this:

    2013-10-09_12-52-10_432.jpg
    set-up like this:
    quad hplb.JPG
     
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  6. icecreamheadache

    icecreamheadache Active Member

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  7. icecreamheadache

    icecreamheadache Active Member

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    Would you ride these '50s pigs in Indo or Fiji or throwing beachies like Puerto? How big would you stay on these before you switched devices (supposing of course that you would switch devices at some point)? I can imagine a surfer with some chops riding them at a place like Cloudbreak that has a mellow roll in section before it lines up and fires on down the reef (where trim and throttle would be just the two Ts a kid would want) but the thought of paddling anything flat with a well-endowed fin at anything pitchy just makes my stomach hurt. But then again that's maybe because having a quiver of options makes it easier to pinhole yourself into not experimenting or seeing just how far your favorites can take you...


     
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  8. Surfnfish

    Surfnfish Active Member

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    A design I came up with and Art Coyler from North Pacific surfboards executed to perfection, installing the perfect rocker around the provided dims.

    9'0 x 16 x 21 7/8 x 13 3/4, single to double concave, generous rear rocker, fronts 16" up..easily the best HPLB I've ever ridden, ridden 2+1 its a whole lotta fun, throw the quads in and it just eats up long, reeling sections.

    Lent the board to a good mate who was having equipment issues for a contest held in OH, fast waves..he won the contest in his age group, loved the ride, helped him order a clone..now his favorite board..

    Dims make a difference..rocker is everything..
     
  9. miscreant

    miscreant Well-Known Member

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    I don't want to be in giant surf. I have no idea how I'd feel about surfing the waves your mentioning on my fifties pig (I mean my turd {thanks Finward for the name}). I've had great sessions on it in big critical days at a spot I know very well. Id be sketched out on any board in large critical waves at the spots you mentioned,since I have only surfed a couple of them a couple times.
     
  10. SeniorGrom

    SeniorGrom Well-Known Member

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    USA New Jersey

    That's getting it dialed-in, knowing your abilities, and desire to achieve a certain feeling/result. Like miscreant said, there are some conditions I won't be surfing in. ich......you're right too. Cloudbreak looks like a dream wave possibly being able to make the drop. After that, when it starts to rifle down the line, yikes! Sure would be fun to make one though.
     
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