wake up at dawn...

Discussion in 'Surfing' started by miscreant, Jun 17, 2016.

  1. dsquare

    dsquare Active Member

    May 16, 2013
    USA Hawaii
    Yesterday on south side: Surfed then had a work retreat on the beach. Took a long left and went too long, reef dried out and threw the board up into me, hands went down to catch it and head bounced off the reef. Just a bonk, no blood, caught one more right and then went to work.... at the beach at a work retreat!

    Spent the rest of the morning watching waves instead of paying attention to presenters. This is up on a point and heavy, watched a guy kill it for about 90 minutes, nasty drop ins and then some big high lip maneuvers on an 8-10 foot face.
    upload_2018-10-2_9-18-48.png upload_2018-10-2_9-12-47.png upload_2018-10-2_9-17-6.png upload_2018-10-2_9-18-48.png

    Kauai sunrise today- few knee high waves and then flat.... at work by 7:45am

  2. NJ Longboarder

    NJ Longboarder Well-Known Member

    Jan 3, 2005
    Few good morning sessions paddling out in the dark. Great way to start the day. hornet, vpin and rincon foil. coop pintail trifecta

    hornet.JPG vpin.JPG
    rincon foil.JPG
  3. PeakMaster

    PeakMaster Well-Known Member

    Feb 15, 2004
    USA New Jersey CMC
  4. dsquare

    dsquare Active Member

    May 16, 2013
    USA Hawaii
    Met a friend visiting the island at an easy spot so he could ease back in. It was lake flat while we watched the sunrise and then a couple of knee high waves came thru. So we paddled out and had fun on the waves that managed to break (and a few that didn't). He used my Takayama Hakman and was amazed by how much easier it was than the Wavestorm he had been trying to surf in the PNW.

    Got back to the car and realized I left my work clothes hanging in the closet..... 2 minutes from my office and I had to drive 30 minutes home and back to change :(
  5. Chilly Willy

    Chilly Willy Well-Known Member

    Feb 15, 2004
    USA New Jersey
    I love the weekday dawn patrol ritual -- loading up your car the night before, making a thermos of coffee, and getting everything prepped so you can roll out to work right after surfing and show up salty. Even if you only get in a 45 minute quickie session, it somehow feels like you've reclaimed a little piece of your life instead of just getting up and going to work. Today's pre-work delight: The surf juiced up just a little bit following a late night storm. Squinting at first light, it looked really shallow and was tough to tell whether it was going to be a problem or not. On my first wave, I squeezed right into a little tube and knew it was going to be perfect for my twin keel fish. Mostly short rides, no long walls to really open 'er up... just taking off, tucking in, and trying to get some views. A nice start to my day.


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