Surfing boards

Discussion in 'Surfing' started by fishy82, Aug 10, 2016.

  1. fishy82

    fishy82 New Member

    Jun 2, 2013
    in light of some recent threads.... Why did your board quit working for you? Everyone has had one, two, or ten of them... You know, the go to board that you've caught amazing waves, but all of the sudden you just don't jive with it. So, what's the reason? Too fat, to skinny, feet shrink, shoulders??

    Here's my list:G&S vee bottom- was the go to for a year. Then, I just didn't jive. Hung the nose in take offs. Spin outs and not enough float (gained lb's).

    The is is- f#%king great in California. Teremar, c st., Malibu, Cardiff... All had a blast. Brought it home and loved it as well. Had a salinas shaped and it hung on the rack for 6 months.. Pulled it down one day and paddled out with disgust. Couldn't get it to turn, paddled slower than I remembered, etc... I'm sure it was all me because it was a great board for a year. Now I want another one!

    Long vaquero- can't believe I'm saying anything negative about the long vaquero, but my last two sessions sucked. Just couldn't get it to do what I wanted. (Perfect shoulder high surf) Trim is still there but felt skittish, slippery and overall uncontrollable. Not sure why. Literally have had this thing stuffed in a top to bottom head high pocket doing Mach 3 and felt like I was on a sidewalk. So what changed? Who knows...

    Are these feelings coming from my surfing progressing, regressing, or just a change in style and stance. I lost 30lbs and have been on a short board more so I know that changes things, but I've surfed hundreds to thousands of waves on these boards. Especially the vaquero. I would say I've caught at least 3000 waves on it and absolutely loved it. Like as much as my wife.. The whole death do you part thing... All of this boils down to there is not a perfect shape and all shapes work for different people. Two months ago I would've sworn that every surfer in the world should have a long vaq. Now, not so sure. But why.. Just some kinda fun food for thought...
  2. ekim

    ekim Active Member

    Oct 14, 2015
    So your selling the vaq?
  3. fishy82

    fishy82 New Member

    Jun 2, 2013
    Definitely not.. And kicking myself for selling the is is and the vee bottom. Hopefully, it'll Make the rotation again one day
  4. shadydave

    shadydave Well-Known Member

    Mar 10, 2014
    Ayer Ma USA
    fishy82 wrote:
    Well you know where one of them is. 😄
  5. MalibuShuffle

    MalibuShuffle New Member

    Jan 28, 2014
    Interesting stuff, fishy... A few thoughts:

    (1)Specifically re: the Vaquero, did you change fins - or even move the fin - between sessions? In the course of my mid-session fin fiddling, I've had some of my favorite hulls (Liddles, Andreinis, Finelines and Lovelaces) switch from dream board to complete dogshit, and vice-versa. That's why GL and KP tell people to notch the fin boxes at 1/4" increments - once you find that magic spot, NEVER MOVE YOUR FIN. (Except when you need to.)

    (2) More broadly, I've noticed that my brain's ability to process the speed of surfing varies greatly... and I'm not sure why. If I haven't surfed in a month, my first session back in the water will feel like a revelation - so fast and dynamic and wild. And at the other end of the spectrum, the more I surf, the slower and more controllable it all feels. It's like the difference between feeling supremely caffeinated vs. hungover / high.

    (3) Sometimes waves play tricks on you. Even with identical wave heights & surface conditions, the difference a tides / swell periods can make is huge. We've all surfed fat, tide-suck head-high waves that were less fun than punchy, tide-push two footers.

    (4) Going from a shortboard to a longboard will do that.
  6. Chilly Willy

    Chilly Willy Well-Known Member

    Feb 15, 2004
    USA New Jersey
    My twin keel fish has been shelved for a while. I used to take it out all the time, but I was riding it in some sweet fall waves. The kid next to me was on a beautiful Phillips log -- much like what I often ride when I'm not on a fish -- and was racking up wave after wave. The fish was going fine, but I kept wishing I was on a longboard so I could be scoring crazy long rides like that. I've been reluctant to grab it ever since then.

    A lesser factor: I had also been sketched out a bit on it a month or so earlier. I was in some really beautiful, overhead waves but got caught right in the impact zone and took a seemingly-endless sneaker set on the head. You know that feeling where you see a giant growing mountain way outside, and you only have a second to gulp some air before the next one detonates on your shoulders. I think it would have happened on any board, but I found myself unfairly blaming the fish for not having more paddling power to zoom my soggy ass out of there. The ideal of missing out on sweet longboard waves was much more of a factor, but I think I just generally needed some time away from it.
  7. SeniorGrom

    SeniorGrom Well-Known Member

    Mar 20, 2012
    USA New Jersey
    Happened to me with just one board. When I got back into surfing in 2000, I bought a 7'10" Stewart fun shape (Thruster). It was my only board for a year or two. I had it dialed and knew how to make it go fast. I couldn't believe how stabile it was in the whitewater. THEN I purchased a single fin longboard. I know I have a front foot bias but didn't know how I was making that Stewart accelerate. All I know is after goint to single fins the thruster became a total dog. Always felt like it was bogging down with no speed. Sold it and still glad I did.
  8. kiwi

    kiwi Well-Known Member

    Aug 28, 2007
    Mine caused my transition to longer boards. Surfed exclusively shortboard thruster from ages 12-26. Spent two weeks in Oz with an Uncle who only had long boards. Rode a 8'6 for two weeks. When I got home my thruster felt like like trying to ride a skateboard deck in the surf. Haven't ridden a shortboard for 18yrs.
  9. davey

    davey Active Member

    Jun 9, 2007
    They definitely lose there mojo over time I reckon but you have to mix it up also, make an effort to ride various boards in your quiver, from the 10' log to your mini simmons. You tend to get a bit lazy and ride the same board over and over, especially logs so when you get back on the shorter one it's nigh impossible. Force yourself sometimes to take the shorty for eg. in 2 foot slop and have fun, you'll be surprised how good it is.
  10. mgarbutt

    mgarbutt Active Member

    Apr 5, 2011
    USA Delaware
    Think it's an issue of time & trends as well. Everyone bailed on the 60's boards and here we are today frothing to own & ride one.

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