Surfboard Security

Discussion in 'Surfing' started by 70s SanO, Jan 29, 2018.

  1. 70s SanO

    70s SanO Active Member

    223
    117
    Feb 16, 2004
    USA California
    I found some 2x2x1/8 stainless angle on eBay for $18. You can slice them up into 1" widths. The only tough piece is finding used marine track slides the right size.

    If I were going to store boards outside, I'd get some Abus 6KS chain and connect the boards together; chain to lock to chain to lock... and then to something relatively solid. You can unlock a board, remove it and then lock the two chains together. Tough for someone to move a half dozen boards all hooked together. Would need to cut the chain for each board.

    John
     
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  2. PeakMaster

    PeakMaster Well-Known Member

    1,387
    132
    Feb 15, 2004
    USA New Jersey CMC
    I would lag 2
    1.5" eyebolts into the block foundation either directly or into a PT 2x6 tap conned into the block.
     
  3. SeniorGrom

    SeniorGrom Well-Known Member

    2,208
    745
    Mar 20, 2012
    USA New Jersey
    I think it’s a bad idea to store surfboards outdoors. Temp and humidity changes over time will draw moisture into even a microscopic pinhole or crack. You’ll then get that brown spreading mold discoloring the foam under the glass. Whenever possible, inside is better.
     
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  4. 70s SanO

    70s SanO Active Member

    223
    117
    Feb 16, 2004
    USA California
    The only issue I have with bike cables is that they are notorious for being cut in seconds. The straps with the cables like the Kanu or Steelcore are supposedly more difficult to cut with bolt cutters. I have some reservation about their videos, but for now it seems to be a good route. If I'm going to be away from the car for a little while, I will also use a cable, just to give them one more thing to cut. But if someone is going to take it, it will be gone.

    That fitting design, on Craigslist, isn't bad because the flat side can't be rotated, however, I'd like to see how it is where the fin gets inserted into the box. I'm assuming it won't come out. Regardless, it would probably stop most people.

    Being retired and with plenty of time on my hands, I went and got some 2x2x1/8 stainless structural angle to play with. I like the sharp outer corner because it doesn't rotate in the box as much. The first one was just bump formed from strip so the outer corner is radiused. Without a flat plate next to it, it would rotate out even though it was wider than the box opening. Here is a pic...

    IMG_5098.JPG

    The structural angle has to be inserted into the box straight down like a fin so any thickness plate will work and it is more solid. PLus it is cheaper when making more than one. Everything else works the same.

    John
     
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  5. takedown

    takedown Active Member

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    Jun 26, 2017
    Eugene, OR
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  6. PeakMaster

    PeakMaster Well-Known Member

    1,387
    132
    Feb 15, 2004
    USA New Jersey CMC
     
  7. PeakMaster

    PeakMaster Well-Known Member

    1,387
    132
    Feb 15, 2004
    USA New Jersey CMC
  8. 70s SanO

    70s SanO Active Member

    223
    117
    Feb 16, 2004
    USA California
    l have been accused of overkill on more than one occasion in my lifetime, so this is just in keeping with my ingrained nature.

    Since I posted my original setup, I have made a couple of enhancements. The Yakima crossbar was steel and not aluminum. Maybe not the best security, but better. I had been using a bike cable looped through the bar when I wanted to add a little more of a deterrent when leaving the car unattended for a period of time. Unfortunately bike cables can be cut with nail clippers. I found an Abus 6mm chain that I could wrap around the crossbar just like a bike cable and still only have to hassle with a single padlock lock. I also upgraded the padlock from a Master to Abloy. None of this matters if an angle grinder is used. But I would feel sorry for anyone that would want my boards that bad.

    IMG_5101.JPG

    IMG_5103.JPG
    John
     
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