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Discussion in 'Surfing' started by miscreant, Jan 3, 2017.
The Lord Board. Lucas is an extremely talented surfer.
Cavin Yap and Chris Won Taloa were/are talented as well. They just didn’t have the hydrodynamica marketing shenanigans surrounding them when they were doing it.
Marketing and gimmicks aside, there are some very talented young surfers out there taking it all to a new level. To some it’s about more than just sliding, planted there. I believe travel and skateparks not to mention fittness and coaching have had their influence. Pretty damned impressive!
Marketing gimmicks are endless in this world. Conversely, when something new that actually exists is realized, it needs a name to identify it. And a little hyperbole is ingrained into everything , including Parmenters periodic rants against everything that is not part of his personal Church. As much as I enjoy his muses, I still retain the image of him showing up at SF OB back in his competition days, wearing a brightly colored wetsuit, trying to fit in 6 smacks off the lips on every wave.
Flex is real, it's just dependent on the craft. Flex has little factor in a heavily wrapped volan log with massive glassed on D fin. Flex much more a factor in an epoxy glassed Varial foam performance shortboard running hexcore fins. Flex the only factor when Ryan Burch rips down the line on a finless 4'10 square of styrofoam, the foam flexing and undulating like a drunken seaport hooker.
As tribal as surfing is, it is also both multi-denominational and cult-like..some attend the Church of Logs, others the Church of Hipo, some the Andreini single fin or Bonzer Five Fin or Parmenter Six Channel brotherhoods..etc, etc...and just like members of all religions and cults, they are steadfast devotees to their particular beliefs, and a bit skeptical of others...