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Discussion in 'Surfing' started by surflugen, Nov 13, 2017 at 12:38 PM.
I try not to say “where is everyone?” out loud ever.
One of my buddies would shush me every time we were in the surf and I said something positive about the conditions. Afraid I would jinx it.
Guilty as charged! But, where I surf, an epic 4' point wave can just die! You'd be waiting for that next wave for a week less ya do the "paddle of shame".
was surfing a reef in Tahiti, at the end of the session told our small posse which included our host, an older local charger named Eric we had met in the states, 'I'm gonna take one in."
Eric immediately cringed and shook his head, 'don't do that, man, never let the reef know when you're heading in, or it will try and hurt you.'
I laughed politely, thinking WTF, is he just messing with me or is he really that superstitious?
Next wave, snapped my board in half, hit the reef, wear the scars on my shoulder to this day.
Back in Eric's small boat, he handed me a lime half to scrub the reef cuts with (works incredibly well btw), and wagged his finger at me. "Never let the reef know when you're heading in, because it will hurt you. You must fool it, keep your mind clear of such thoughts, get a good wave, and only at the end of a ride once you're cleared the reef decide to go in, because than the reef can no longer hurt you."
Scrubbing lime juice into the tiger claws across my shoulder, exploring just how many swear words I knew, I surf the f*#k wasn't going to disagree with him..
When i get in I always flip the board and check for dings before i paddle out. Dont remember why but have the same ( superstitious) ritual for the last 4 decades +\-