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Discussion in 'Surfing' started by surflugen, Nov 13, 2017.
I try not to say “where is everyone?” out loud ever.
One of my buddies would shush me every time we were in the surf and I said something positive about the conditions. Afraid I would jinx it.
Guilty as charged! But, where I surf, an epic 4' point wave can just die! You'd be waiting for that next wave for a week less ya do the "paddle of shame".
was surfing a reef in Tahiti, at the end of the session told our small posse which included our host, an older local charger named Eric we had met in the states, 'I'm gonna take one in."
Eric immediately cringed and shook his head, 'don't do that, man, never let the reef know when you're heading in, or it will try and hurt you.'
I laughed politely, thinking WTF, is he just messing with me or is he really that superstitious?
Next wave, snapped my board in half, hit the reef, wear the scars on my shoulder to this day.
Back in Eric's small boat, he handed me a lime half to scrub the reef cuts with (works incredibly well btw), and wagged his finger at me. "Never let the reef know when you're heading in, because it will hurt you. You must fool it, keep your mind clear of such thoughts, get a good wave, and only at the end of a ride once you're cleared the reef decide to go in, because than the reef can no longer hurt you."
Scrubbing lime juice into the tiger claws across my shoulder, exploring just how many swear words I knew, I surf the f*#k wasn't going to disagree with him..
When i get in I always flip the board and check for dings before i paddle out. Dont remember why but have the same ( superstitious) ritual for the last 4 decades +\-
I read this thread on Friday thinking huh? I always signal One More to my buddies as a session reaches it conclusion. Never, ever been a problem... Until today.
We were riding a nice peeling left at Sennen for a couple of hours on a dropping tide. One more!
My mate took one in. I then sat for a full 10 minutes waiting for something, anything to roll in. It just switched off. I thought I can't paddle in without getting a wave because that was mentioned here too. Double Bubble! I took a shitty straight-hander in to the beach and left the scene totally confused.
You Jammers certainly put a weird curse on the end of a chilly but enjoyable session.
I'm never saying 'One More' again.
The "shower wave" phenomenon . Finish a session on a mediocre wave you took to keep from doing the paddle of shame, lay your board down, get your wetsuit half off, start taking that fresh water shower and make the mistake of looking at the lineup. There it is, the perfect wave, right where you were a couple minutes ago, the dreaded shower wave. If you had only stayed out a couple more minutes.
Never, ever, wear a tikii necklace that you found in a cave surfing!
Hahaha... I've done the get out, walk back to my car, look back, see a nice wave, turn around, and paddle back out for more routine many times in the past. It's never as good as I'm hoping when I get back in though. There's usually a reason I got out in the first place.
Here's one of mine: I always try to pick up trash on the beach whenever I can. If I see a balloon floating by (which happens a lot more often than you'd expect), I'll snatch it up, surf it in, and run it up to the trash can, even if it's in the middle of a session. Other than plain good stewardship, I always think to myself that it's probably worth some kind of good surf karma -- maybe the surf gods will send a nice peak my way for the good deed.
As Quoted by Dale Webster (Daily Dale)...
"I always take a shit before paddling out, Otherwise I surf like shit!"