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Discussion in 'Surfing' started by Mango Bill, Feb 7, 2012.
this floats my boat - that freight train wave
That was pretty motivating. Made me want to grab a longboard and hit the water, thanks!
Some of my favorite surfers to watch right here. Stoked to learn a few things from Kai T. These kids rip!
I’m not scrolling thru 201 pages to see if it was posted previously, but if you’re looking for an 90s lo-fi feature length film and are a fan of the cosmic bandito, you might like this...
I was literally born on the coastal range overlooking what is now known as Mavericks. Back in the 50's, Sail Rock (inside Mavericks which we called Pillar Point) would tell us to get down inside the now harbor for perfect little rights on longboards when we saw whitewater. Jeff was a grom who lived in Miramar (immediately south of the Harbor that was developed by the completion in 1957). It was like a Dana Point, with consequences not unlike Killer Dana. I remember taking Jeff as a grom down to Ano for a surf. Great curly head kid with a self made twin fin (this was like 1970?). We paddled out once with another friend Bill Guthorsin at Ross's (just inside the north end of Pillar, aka, Mavericks). Jeff would eye Mav's (he later called it) and try to convince us that wave could be ridden. No takers, Ross's was a great big wave left without consequences, a sled ride. Here's a great short documentary on a place I spent my early years seeing from home and skirting a safe distance from a 32' Monterrey Clipper heading out to our commercial fishing grounds for salmon: Enjoy!