For some reason it hasn't made the news, but we lost a surfer early this week in Oceanside at the Harbor. Bigger surf, rips running as usual in big surf (moderate to severe). Guy hadn't been surfing for a while (maybe months/years), without a leash, in his 50's and out of shape. Complained to fellow surfers that he had a "heart problem" and was in distress. Short version, he died. Despite all life saving efforts. Rough on everyone, including the guy, the family, the guys doing CPR and official notification to family. Long version, it isn't about wave count. Keep an eye on others for self preservation and for evidence of distress. Could be you one day.