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Discussion in 'Surfing' started by Cuttlefish, Sep 27, 2012.
Went up the coast last weekend. Found some tiny ones.
After a long break, I finally committed to going surfing this morning. I checked one wind-protected spot and was happy to see it should work when the tide goes up a bit - it has a bunch of rocks/boulders on low tide. So I changed, got the board and guess what - mid tide pushes so much water it was almost too late. but I went anyway. eat turd for an hour and called it a day. the lesson - looks like I have to spend more time in the gym as I felt like I was barely moving while paddling; and I have to try to get out with every opportunity, no more lame excuses. But even with poor timing on my end and conditions that caused me scored just one wave, I'm happy I went.
super fun late morning surf here in VA Beach, small, clean and no crowd. there is a big on the beach hip-hop/urban concert next weekend and the beach is a mess with a temporary road and stage being built right on the beach, very large setup. 25,000 people expected, things look pretty grim for surfing. sure had a good time on the Phillips SWT2, hanging 10 on the wave of the day.
Waist high choppy mush. But it was sunny, and I shared it with a friend who needed some time in the water. So it was epic.
I had some fun on my 7’11 Andreini Vaquero in small clean surf. I love the buttery smooth takeoffs on this board! )
Nice board and a fun spot.
SB surf report: scored a few little ones today at SandSpit, still trying to clean up and settle down from a bout of wind driven swells lately. Yesterday was better; points turning on a bit at the right tides. Rincon looked really fun in the bay early morning and not too many folks in the water.
Got to paddle out in small windblown slop with a buddy yesterday. Finally able to shed the 6mm and slim down to a 5mm. Sun’s out and I’m surfing in the middle of America.
Had a really fun morning. Head high choice of lefts and rights, easy currents, decent set of people out.
Saturday night though proved interesting. Watched the sunset and caught plenty of good waves at Poipu. My wife can't see at dusk so I told her we need to get in. I was well outside of her and thought she was paddling in. I caught a nice peak and took it way in. Turned around and she is still sitting slightly inside hoping to pick one up. But it's getting dark. Outside set comes and she turtles. Then I see her swimming in. Leash broke. I paddle to her and give her my board to paddle in to the beach and run the long way around. I swam into the reef/rocks. I'm up current so the board should come to me if its loose. Crawl up on the reef in breaking waves and thank God I didn't bump into any urchins. See her around the far side of the point running down to the water and grab a board from the reef. Now i'm on a reefy point. Rocks and bushes between me and the resort. I discover a bamboo beach mat and use that to throw down on the bushes so I can walk out. End with a 4 foot jump over a hedge onto a grassy area at the resort and go find my wife. She is upset because its too dark to give the board a once over and was worried about me... So we make our way to a resort hot tub and relax for a bit then grab our boards and go home.
Leash broke at the ankle connection. The swivel just popped right off the leash. Its probably over 5 years old so.... and the board- a few paint chips and the fin needs a good sanding.