How was your surf today?....share your stoke!

Discussion in 'Surfing' started by Cuttlefish, Sep 27, 2012.

  1. longhairhippie

    longhairhippie Active Member

    293
    30
    Mar 31, 2011
    USA
    Went up the coast last weekend. Found some tiny ones.
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  2. WhiteRussian

    WhiteRussian Active Member

    438
    85
    Oct 16, 2007
    Boston Harbor
    After a long break, I finally committed to going surfing this morning. I checked one wind-protected spot and was happy to see it should work when the tide goes up a bit - it has a bunch of rocks/boulders on low tide. So I changed, got the board and guess what - mid tide pushes so much water it was almost too late. but I went anyway. eat turd for an hour and called it a day. the lesson - looks like I have to spend more time in the gym as I felt like I was barely moving while paddling; and I have to try to get out with every opportunity, no more lame excuses. But even with poor timing on my end and conditions that caused me scored just one wave, :( I'm happy I went.
     
    Last edited: Apr 9, 2019
  3. Roadmaster

    Roadmaster Well-Known Member

    423
    446
    Nov 19, 2015
    USA Virginia
    super fun late morning surf here in VA Beach, small, clean and no crowd. there is a big on the beach hip-hop/urban concert next weekend and the beach is a mess with a temporary road and stage being built right on the beach, very large setup. 25,000 people expected, things look pretty grim for surfing. sure had a good time on the Phillips SWT2, hanging 10 on the wave of the day.

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  4. Patrick Riley

    Patrick Riley Active Member

    79
    104
    May 15, 2018
    Jacksonville Beach
    Waist high choppy mush. But it was sunny, and I shared it with a friend who needed some time in the water. So it was epic.
     
    T-Bone, Andrew Johnson and michael like this.
  5. EricM

    EricM Member

    80
    51
    Jan 11, 2016
    USA California
    I had some fun on my 7’11 Andreini Vaquero in small clean surf. I love the buttery smooth takeoffs on this board! :))

    AF21B3D6-8CEC-45DA-8907-9A1CCD53C982.jpeg E299E926-9616-4A81-9FBA-201B23A745C2.jpeg 98B4554C-0CA7-4F94-89C5-FB9E1A3E4EE8.jpeg
     
  6. takedown

    takedown Active Member

    209
    80
    Jun 26, 2017
    Eugene, OR

    Nice board and a fun spot.
     
    EricM likes this.
  7. EricM

    EricM Member

    80
    51
    Jan 11, 2016
    USA California
    Thank you!! :)
     
  8. Couch

    Couch Active Member

    175
    121
    Mar 18, 2018
    Santa Barbara
    SB surf report: scored a few little ones today at SandSpit, still trying to clean up and settle down from a bout of wind driven swells lately. Yesterday was better; points turning on a bit at the right tides. Rincon looked really fun in the bay early morning and not too many folks in the water.

    Couch
     
  9. aussie-surfer

    aussie-surfer Active Member

    212
    90
    Jun 28, 2007
    USA Wisconsin
    Got to paddle out in small windblown slop with a buddy yesterday. Finally able to shed the 6mm and slim down to a 5mm. Sun’s out and I’m surfing in the middle of America.
     
  10. dsquare

    dsquare Active Member

    331
    113
    May 16, 2013
    USA Hawaii
    Had a really fun morning. Head high choice of lefts and rights, easy currents, decent set of people out.

    Saturday night though proved interesting. Watched the sunset and caught plenty of good waves at Poipu. My wife can't see at dusk so I told her we need to get in. I was well outside of her and thought she was paddling in. I caught a nice peak and took it way in. Turned around and she is still sitting slightly inside hoping to pick one up. But it's getting dark. Outside set comes and she turtles. Then I see her swimming in. Leash broke. I paddle to her and give her my board to paddle in to the beach and run the long way around. I swam into the reef/rocks. I'm up current so the board should come to me if its loose. Crawl up on the reef in breaking waves and thank God I didn't bump into any urchins. See her around the far side of the point running down to the water and grab a board from the reef. Now i'm on a reefy point. Rocks and bushes between me and the resort. I discover a bamboo beach mat and use that to throw down on the bushes so I can walk out. End with a 4 foot jump over a hedge onto a grassy area at the resort and go find my wife. She is upset because its too dark to give the board a once over and was worried about me... So we make our way to a resort hot tub and relax for a bit then grab our boards and go home.

    Leash broke at the ankle connection. The swivel just popped right off the leash. Its probably over 5 years old so.... and the board- a few paint chips and the fin needs a good sanding.
     
    Dawnpatrol and T-Bone like this.

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