How was your surf today?....share your stoke!

Discussion in 'Surfing' started by Cuttlefish, Sep 27, 2012.

  1. DanSan

    DanSan Well-Known Member

    Jun 7, 2012
    USA California
    I know ..
    WWVS(what would veterano say)
    Lackosense likes this.
  2. DanSan

    DanSan Well-Known Member

    Jun 7, 2012
    USA California

    George glider...10.6 x 24 x 3 5/8....
    Feels..rides "narrower"..make sense?
    1st..jon at board source...aces..patient..decent fair guy..
    2nd- leon..aces..2 days to SC..just forgot to call me..that he was early..ha..i didnt know it was there for a matter
    3rd- freeline for holding 2 days..yes i did drop a 12 pack of good ice cold beer..10am..good talking with peter always..
    Lastly...omg...this was just crazy fun at the point in windy rainy..then sunny..bumpy..then smooth surf 3-4'..maybe 8~10 of us..then o'neil's started working on the dropping tide
    Ran the 8.5 frye fin.( will try 8" 4A next)
    .which was awesome.
    KELP...alot this year.
    I.caught anything..everything....long glidey waves..even made steep drops..but yowza..flat rocker..
    .can be interesting.
    .one huge thing.
    .the board is extremely well made..thick redwood george and son..much thanks..note..they are men.of one word answers..which should be respected.. sunbleached( for you spogebob parents..)..tired..thirsty..craving greens ;-)
    Last edited: Mar 8, 2019
    T-Bone likes this.
  3. Couch

    Couch Active Member

    Mar 18, 2018
    Santa Barbara
    Finally, our chocolate brown water is gone, the winds died down, the reservoirs filled up and the waves filled in! Really fun little 2'-3' runners today, clear-ish water and not too crowded as the 411 had not hit the streets when I paddled out....later the pack doubled in size but still good times and nice 3 wave sets instead of the one-hit-wonders we've seen recently....much stoke.

    deemce likes this.
  4. michael

    michael Well-Known Member

    Apr 19, 2017
    Last night with the extra PM daylight hours I was able to get out there after 2 months or so on the bench.

    Came up to my usual break ready to paddle out in anything when a sad looking dude who just got out said with a huff “it’s basically flat”.... well i was prepared to get out there regardless just to get wet, esp with the clock ticking.

    I decided to do a quick check up the road and it paid off. Summer like conditions stomach to chest range. Buttery clean waves.

    Finally caught a few on my new vaquero custom as the most beautiful sunset colored the sky... and I have been smiling ever since.

    Surfing is good.
    T-Bone, Chilly Willy, davey and 4 others like this.
  5. Chilly Willy

    Chilly Willy Well-Known Member

    Feb 15, 2004
    USA New Jersey
    Nice! I was up your way and checked a bunch of spots. I should have settled on spot #2 but ended up at spot #3 with fading sunlight. Hardly got anything worthwhile because it was a bit soft and hard to catch where I was. Glad you scored!
  6. DanSan

    DanSan Well-Known Member

    Jun 7, 2012
    USA California
    Another killer glider day at the a day off..needed it
    Too much drama on campus..
    Plus last night on the way home a
    Rock or something pierced my oil filter..
    Freak..accident..oil spewing everywhere..smoke
    .i looked like snoopy after the red baron shot up his sopwith camel..
    I manage to get a tow to my mechanic
    4 hrs later up i get home..and toast..
    Anywho ..strong offshore winds..the waves helped today..long rides..4-7' at point...3-4' jacks..
    Thank god..i needed this.
    I love me some glider..later..
  7. dsquare

    dsquare Active Member

    May 16, 2013
    USA Hawaii
    Pre-work dawn patrol down the road from my office. Clear skies instead of the expected rain, water was chilly enough for a 2/1 top to be comfortable. Slight wind chop. Super slow and long waits for waist high waves with short rides- but I got out. Originally it was three paddle foilers and me. Then an SUP and then a couple more paddler foilers. They were mostly taking the crap that was not breaking clean anyway. But they were in the way a lot, it wasn't a problem until a few more foils and few more longboarders showed up. Anyone know how to talk to a 68 year old lady on an SUP who doesn't understand the concept of a channel? She's a straight shooter so sharing a wave with her on the inside isn't an issue, but she spends a lot of time sitting and standing in the best water. I paddled way outside after one ride and pulled the group out with me... I just wanted to rest and let the slow current pull me back into position after a few minutes. Too many followers, how did I become the guy that marked the line-up position? Two other longboarders who knew what they were doing came out to me also. I let a set go thru to give everyone their waves... long wait and paddled for one in the next set, the crowd parted and let me thru. Caught a decent right and went in. Then I had a nice hot water rinse from the rinse-kit my wife bought me and changed in the chenille changing poncho we made at home... I guess we all have our kooky ways.
  8. Salinity

    Salinity Well-Known Member

    May 11, 2016
    USA Rhode Island
    3 fun sessions today at La Derecha & Bobo’s at Playa Encuentro in the D.R.. Water warm enough to trunk it, fun waist to chest reef break (glassy in the am before the trades start blowing). Started with a tank of an 8-0 and switched up to a fun red & black (like the color is important) local shape 8-0 with a bit more foil & nose kick for the drops. Board selection isn’t too bad for rentals & they let you switch up as often as you like, which is pretty sweet. Armed guards at the head of the beach road & on the beach (likely watching over the racks of the 4 or 5 surf school / rental places - boards are left out 24-7) is a change to my delicate sensibilities, but I felt safe nudging the evening session a bit past sunset (uno mas...maybe dos mas)...

    Water vibe is friendly here - at least I think it is (I am a “gringo stipido” & dont know much Spanish at all). It is waaaay more gregarious though - lots of trash talk, hoots, whistles, etc. (even for my gringo reef-bootie-wearing a**. Pretty fun. I’m spent & stoked.

    T-Bone, FalseDawn, rootdown and 3 others like this.
  9. DanSan

    DanSan Well-Known Member

    Jun 7, 2012
    USA California
    Sweet lord..
    Check torren martyn's video..dear vinta..
    And another from the inertia of him in south amer.
    On his 7.10 MOTE massive bottom,
    Micro wings..rasta keels..

    Ward coffey made me a copy...7.10..
    Wow..after 3 killer glider seshs..
    I had to with go fowler V8 or the twin*..
    Wicked low tide..especially at rockview..
    Wifey took kids shopping..girls stuff..a rare
    Break fkr i ran with it...
    3-5p at stoked...

    * fowler V8 with new 10" robin kegel T fin..thanks cuda..for the info..
    Is next on the runway..
    Last edited: Mar 17, 2019
    Bighouse likes this.
  10. deemce

    deemce Well-Known Member

    May 18, 2010
    USA Pennsylvania
    What a great DP yesterday. Still a wave after a cold front came through and took 20 degrees off the air temp and cleaned up the water. Winds were straight off shore to start and perfect. I looked at spots from the south and SG looked from the north. Came to a local fav that normally is all lefts south of the jetty with the north side of the jetty being blah. Not yesterday. The swell angle was spot on for peeling rights north side of the jetty and it was on..... with only one guy out. Got in and had 1 1/2 hours of uncrowded fun. The hangover crowd got there just before the wind speed doubled and changed direction blowing it out. Timing is everything. Best session in 5 months. Stoked
    Chilly Willy, jbb, SeniorGrom and 3 others like this.

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