How was your surf today?....share your stoke!

Discussion in 'Surfing' started by Cuttlefish, Sep 27, 2012.

  1. deemce

    deemce Active Member

    852
    233
    May 18, 2010
    USA Pennsylvania
    Had a fun couple of hours today in OC. The strong off/sideshores made it interesting with shifting peaks. Some nice peeling sets came through off of the jetty....only a few out. The swell angle was spot on and caused the walls to line up down the beach. Had the Fountain of Youth out again. Still amazed at the paddle power and how it gets into waves like a LB...but alot looser. Great day and hoping for more later in the week. Stoked after a month out of the water.
     
    T-Bone, Chilly Willy, 306Bing and 3 others like this.
  2. Chilly Willy

    Chilly Willy Well-Known Member

    1,532
    564
    Feb 15, 2004
    USA New Jersey
    There were some excellent waves in NJ yesterday if you were in the right place. I did a little road tripping after work with two particular spots in mind. When I rolled up to the first one, it looked perfect. Chest to head+ high, a really easy paddle out with a very defined peak, and surprisingly not really too many heads on it. It would have been a mindbending experience on my 7'4" v.Bowls, but against my better judgment, I had the unstoppable urge to jump back in my car and take a gamble on the other spot 25 minutes away with sunlight waning. My brain was saying, "Turn around, turn around, turn around." It's usually a little smaller up there, but I thought it could have great potential if the gamble paid off. Guess what -- HUGE mistake! The waves weren't breaking at that spot at all. DANG! Legitimately, "I shoulda been there yesterday" because it probably would have been working better with the kind of waves we had on Sunday. As they say, never leave waves for waves. Lesson learned.

    It was too late to go back, so I picked a random spot just a hair south of there and gave it a go. Considering that I gave up excellent waves for lesser ones, I still managed to pull together a really nice little session with some of the added thrill of surf seeking/exploration. The spot I picked felt pretty wild and isolated, with what ended up being waist high with long peeling rights breaking fast and hollow through a nice little sand cove. I rode my 8'4" v.Bowls and with no one around for a mile, I amassed an impressive wave count over a mere 30-40 minutes. Paddle, turn, go, and repeat for the entire time. My last wave was so long that I had to walk what felt like a quarter mile back to where I left my stuff on the beach. On the way back, I saw a great blue heron wading at the water's edge. A few minutes later, I saw him flying away, silhouetted against the last light of sunset. Very cool, I don't usually see that down where I usually surf. If I could do it all over again, I would definitely have picked the first spot, but eh... I think I did alright anyway.
     
    T-Bone, Makawaosurfer93 and michael like this.
  3. FalseDawn

    FalseDawn Active Member

    With my wife and girls shopping and my son at the rink I got to sneak out this afternoon for a bit. Fun fall afternoon with no one on it but me and one other for a relaxing 1 1/2hr. paddle.
    20181103_184346.jpg
     
  4. michael

    michael Active Member

    378
    217
    Apr 19, 2017
    NJ
    First day of the pushed up clocks, got the whole extra hour. Yow. Nothing like a long sunrise and stomach to chest high sets and nowhere to be for a few hours.
     
  5. Tlri

    Tlri Member

    69
    38
    Oct 30, 2017
    Rhode island
    2 sessions today.
    Like Michael I got the extended sunrise with waist to chest, for me it was at Point Judith RI.
    Then an hour and a half with the kids at 2nd beach in Newport up to an early sunset.
    Both were GREAT in their own way!
     
  6. Salinity

    Salinity Active Member

    332
    135
    May 11, 2016
    USA Rhode Island
    Double session here too - 1st beach in the am, glassy 2nd beach in the pm. Shoulders were pretty tired after yesterday (was like paddling on a treadmill with the side shore gale), and i really felt it during the pm session but it was fun and a really nice fall day.
     
  7. Couch

    Couch Member

    55
    20
    Mar 18, 2018
    Santa Barbara
    Well folks, up here (or down here) in SB, we had a pretty damn good October! Surf was a bit sloppy but overall a nice hefty dose of South swell with some NW mixed in for our points. I can't complain at all. Hope you all found some waves wherever you call home-----much stoke.

    Couch
     
  8. joepoko

    joepoko Member

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    40
    Feb 6, 2018
    Queens, NY
    woke up late yesterday after a night out with a bunch of friends and a post-1:30AM slice of artichoke pizza. needless to say i didn't last too long in the water yesterday. ha.
     
  9. dingdong

    dingdong Well-Known Member

    1,167
    236
    Jan 14, 2013
    USA California
    couple fun weekend mornings in some semi fast beach break...mornings here are getting crispy cold, but there's nothing like a beautiful clear winter morning in the water
     
  10. deemce

    deemce Active Member

    852
    233
    May 18, 2010
    USA Pennsylvania
    Got out Sunday AM, Walked up to check and it was lining up perfectly off the jetty and only two others out. With outgoing tide, it was only going to last so long so we quickly jumped in. I think I have to consult a Shaman or something because no sooner after the paddle out and 1 wave, went to shi*. Moved around to a couple other spots but the morning magic was gone for the day.
    Next time....

    Did discover it is time to move from the 3/2. Was a bit frosty with the air around 40 degrees.
     

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